Edmonton

Café Linnea 'exquisite,' says Edmonton AM food critic

If the rows upon rows of pastries at the Duchess Bake Shop aren't enough to satiate your appetite for french cuisine, there is a new place in Edmonton to fill your belly with a taste of beau Paris.

'They did everything right. Pretty good for not being officially open yet'

Edmonton AM food critic Twyla Campbell says this oeuf-en-cocotte dish was outstanding. (Cafe Linnea/Twitter )

If the rows upon rows of pastries at the Duchess Bake Shop aren't enough to satiate your appetite for French cuisine, there is a new place in Edmonton to fill your belly with a taste of beau Paris.

Café Linnea is the Queen Mary Park neighbourhood's best, worst kept secret.

"The execution of dishes is exquisite, expect nothing less from this team," said Edmonton AM food reviewer Twyla Campbell.

"They haven't had their grand opening yet, and they're a well-oiled machine already, and lineups out the door."

The new eatery, specializing in breakfast, brunch and high tea is the latest culinary offering from Duchess founder Garner Beggs.

Although they haven't officially opened up their doors, Campbell says they've been serving up picture-perfect plates for weeks.

Although Campbell was enthralled with the menu, she cautions you should look elsewhere for conventional breakfast options like hash browns and toast.

Linnea instead lends an air of class to these early morning staples, with dishes like house-made sausage, buckwheat crepes, and stuffed french pastry.  

The dishes are French with a Scandinavian twist, reflecting the background of head chef and co-owner Kelsy Johnson who has worked in well-established Edmonton restaurants like Characters and Culina.
Cafe Linea is located in Holland Plaza in Edmonton's Queen Mary Park neighbourhood. (Sarah Hervieux)
 

Campbell started her breakfast with a strong, hot americano, some freshly squeezed fruit juice, and a heaping serving of red beet beef tartare, served with crusty bread and made-in-house butter.

"It was visually blinding red in colour, tender beef mixed with Dijon mustard, pickled ramps, diced beets and spices," said Campbell. 

"It was surprisingly delicate in flavour.

"It was the perfect tartare."

After that, it only got better, says Campbell.

The oeufs en cocotte, with caramelized onion, mushroom ragu, kale and toasted sourdough, were Instagram worthy.

"You mix all those flavours together. It was pure magic."

One caution for the early birds eager to sink their teeth into the café's new menu, the word about this restaurant is out.

You may have to line-up for your meal, but Campbell says it will be well worth the wait.

"They did everything right. Pretty good for not being officially open yet."