See-through everything, pink for miles! Top trends from all the Spring/Summer 2020 Men's Fashion Weeks
Good news: Your vintage movie t-shirt is trending for next year…
We may have just recently experienced the first official day of summer 2019, but the zeitgeist-hungry fashion industry is always looking ahead. Over the last month, the world's biggest menswear designers unveiled their Spring/Summer 2020 collections to fashion watchers across the globe. From themed tees, to double denim (again), to sheer threads, here is a look at six of the biggest trends we spotted on the menswear runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Pretty in pink
Pink is arguably the most divisive and richly provocative of colours — especially when it comes to men's wardrobes. That's probably exactly why so many designers embraced the colour for the Spring/Summer 2020 collections.
In Paris, the runways were simply tickled pink, with droves of designers showing off every shade of the colour. Looking back at all of the splashes of pink that hit the runways the most memorable look was worn by Arsenal defender Héctor Bellerín on the Louis Vuitton runway. Bellerín (who was dubbed "football's most stylish player" by British Vogue back in March) wore an embossed fuchsia hoodie and matching shorts by famed artistic director Virgil Abloh.
Jonathan Anderson also brought a little pink to the runway with his SS20 menswear collection for Loewe. On his whimsical inspirations for the collection, the designer told Vogue, "We have to be aware of what's going on in the world, but sometimes it's good to dream. Why should people not be in a fantasy state? Maybe they'll find something." The pastel pink pyjama-like sets in satin (you'll see more satin later) were the designer's most playful take on the trendy colour and Loewe's signature luxury aesthetic.
A series of dramatically oversized pink suits perfectly embraced this trend at Paul Smith's SS20 runway presentation. The colour may have been a nod to the Insta-famous pink wall outside of Paul Smith's Melrose Avenue boutique in Los Angeles, but the collection was inspired by the designer's trips to downtown New York during the 1970s.
Other designers embracing the Pretty (manly) In Pink trend included: Li-Ning, GMBH and Kim Jones' epic range for Dior that came down the runway in Paris.
Themed entertainment T-Shirts
It used to be that if you really enjoyed a concert, you bought the T-shirt. Now, vintage-inspired band tees, and movie tees, are a fashion trend all their own. It's not the first time the trend has popped up, but this time seems bigger than ever. For SS20 high fashion designers are making big moves, licensing pop culture, film and iconic music insignias.
Canada's beloved Dean and Dan Caten, the brothers behind DSquared2, sent their models down the runway in Milan wearing vintage style T-shirts paying tribute to martial arts legend Bruce Lee. They wore them to take their bow at the end of the show too.
Meanwhile, Etro locked down an exclusive collaboration with Lucasfilm leading up to the ninth episode of the Star Wars saga (Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker is scheduled to be released on December 20, 2019). The #EtroXStarWars capsule collection includes a range of must-have staples, like hoodies and T-shirts galore.
German designer Philipp Plein brought a little rock 'n' roll to the runway in Milan, a theme that has become Plein's go-to in recent years. Underneath the designer's on-trend leather jackets the models sported vintage-inspired Kiss T-shirts. Plein's collaboration with the glam rock band has the iconic Kiss logo slapped on unisex torn-up band tees, hoodies, and more.
Double denim — anew
During the Fall/Winter 2019 shows, the Canadian tuxedo took over the runways in London, Milan, Paris and New York and became one of the biggest menswear trends for the season. Love it or leave it, the double denim trend isn't going anywhere next season.
Unfortunately for Canadian style watchers, this time around the double denim trend has more of a '70s disco feel to it, rather than a hiking-through-a-Canadian-forest feel.
For SS20, Hedi Slimane created a cohesive Celine collection that screamed Studio 54, so it was no surprise when models began walking the runway in flared bell-bottom denim jeans paired with fitted denim jackets.
Balmain, Heron Preston, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Versace and Loewe also showed '70s-inspired double denim. But, if you're not into matching your denim, you could try another fun denim trend coming your way next year. May we present the short-sleeve coveralls, the pair above courtesy of Fendi's SS20 menswear collection.
Sheer jackets, shirts, and tracksuits: apparently it's all about going see-through next summer because the trend could be spotted everywhere on the runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
In London, Emirati designer Qasimi sent a fully transparent pink tracksuit down the runway, while John Lawrence Sullivan designer Arashi Yanagawa presented a grunge-inspired menswear collection that was filled with black mesh T-shirts.
Other designers that opted to show off see-through pieces in their SS20 collections? Almost too many to mention: Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Versace, Dries Van Noten, DSquared2, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana... Dior also showed some seriously sheer looks courtesy of star designer Kim Jones.
Of course, there are always designers there that take trends to new levels. Westminster University graduate San Kim showed a collection of inflatable garments for his menswear MA collection at London Men's Fashion Week. You could say this transparent balloon suit was right on trend.
Also coming down the runway in London, Craig Green (who is one of the most-watched designers at London Fashion Week) debuted mesh-like creations that channelled the transparency trend. Green's 'Lantern Men' models wore cutout paper like creations on the runway, which were inspired by Mexican papel picado.
'90s-inspired cargo pants
Part of a wider, utilitarian trend that dominated the women's SS20 runway collections, men's cargo pants are definitely set to make a comeback next spring. More specifically, big, bulky and hyper-practical styles — reminiscent of the '90s with enough pockets to carry everything imaginable — are back. Great news for any guys out there who want to relive their '90s boy band fantasies.
In London, British designer Liam Hodge presented wide leg cargo pants (some in solid colours and some with mixed fabrics) with larger-than-life pockets. Seriously how much stuff do guys need to put in their pockets...?
JordanLuca also showed off oversized, slashed-and-twisted nineties-inspired cargo pants on the runway at his second London Fashion Week show, while Qasimi debuted slightly slimmer straight leg cargo pants.
Serious about satin
Satin styles have been a constant in women's wear collections over the last couple of seasons, and now it's time for the guys to jump on board. That's right, some of the biggest menswear designers reinvented the often loathed, (often unforgiving), material for the SS20 menswear runways.
In London, British designer Edward Crutchley debuted plenty of satin looks on the SS20 runway, while Bulgarian brand Kiko Kostadinov showed a collection that was filled with bomber jackets, shirts, pants and shorts with high-shine finishes.
In Paris, Kim Jones continued to bring hints of feminine elegance into Dior's latest menswear collection. The beloved designer who took over designing Dior Homme last year presented an elegant collection of draped silhouettes with an abundance of shiny satin overcoats, tailored suits, blazers, sashes and more.
Loewe, Dunhill and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy also showed collections filled with glossy satin styles. At Dries Van Noten, there was a parade of satin textures on the runway, while Balmain's creative director Olivier Rousteing put the trend front and centre with collection filled with luxe satin silhouettes that the loyal #BalmainArmy would die for.
Christopher Turner is a Toronto-based writer, editor and lifelong fashionisto with a passion for pop culture and sneakers. Follow him on social media at @Turnstylin.