Venetians hold funeral march to mark population decline
Last Updated: Saturday, November 14, 2009 | 3:57 PM ET
The Associated Press
Venetians march during a mock funeral procession on Saturday. (Luigi Costantini/Associated Press)Historic Venice is approaching the dread status of living museum, with a population now below 60,000 — a largely symbolic threshold considered by some to signal the end of the city's viability.
As native Venetians flee in droves to the mainland for cheaper housing and easier living, those who have stayed marked their modern-day demise with a mock funeral procession Saturday down the Grand Canal.
A few dozen gondolas, led by a pink one carrying a flower-draped coffin, snaked down the inverted S-shaped canal before docking in front of Ca' Farsetti — the palazzo housing Venice's City Hall — where hundreds of Venetians joined the procession.
Venice city officials say reports of the city's death are premature. In fact, while the population of the historic centre — the piazzas and alleyways that surround the canal — dipped to 59,992 in recent weeks, as of Thursday it was officially 60,025.
"They will have the funeral in a living village, not yet dead. And it won't die, even if it goes to 59,999," Mara Rumiz, the city official in charge of demographics, said in a telephone interview Friday.
She said the numbers don't take into account the inhabitants of Venice's islands — including glass-making Murano and the Lido beach — nor the many who are not officially registered, including students. Together, they add another 120,000 souls.
But Venice must still resist becoming merely a tourist destination, Rumiz said.
"It is evident that Venice has to safeguard its residents and attract new inhabitants. If not, we risk that Venice becomes only a tourist mecca, and this is a destiny that we don't want," Rumiz said.
Hassles with transportation in daily living
While wandering the narrow allies and waterways of Venice is a tourist's delight, life in Venice is for the hardy and financially resilient.
Housing costs and rents drop to as much as a third in the nearby city of Marghera. And consider the logistics of an everyday errand like grocery shopping. One would likely need a water taxi ride to a supermarket, another to get home with the groceries and then, with few elevators in residential buildings, a heavy load to lug upstairs. Historic Venice does not permit the comfort of a car parked outside the door.
Yet as if to echo Rumiz's underlying optimism about Venice's fate, Saturday's mock funeral ended with an unexpected bright look to the future.
After a black-caped actor read poetry in Venetian dialect bemoaning the problems of life in the lagoon city, the funeral's "pallbearers" smashed open the coffin and pulled out a flag of La Fenice — phoenix in Italian — the mythical winged creature that rises from ashes and is a symbol of rebirth.
The significance of the phoenix is particularly acute for Venetians, since their own La Fenice opera house rose from its own ashes and reopened in 2003 after being destroyed by a fire set by electricians in 1996.
After the surprise ending to the funeral, participants uncorked sparkling wine to toast Venice's rebirth and hope for the future.
Venetians themselves would like to see more money put toward retaining natives, and are critical of such projects as the new Calatrava Bridge over the Grand Canal. Building the bridge, designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, ran well over projected costs while doing little to ease the lives of average Venetians.
City too expensive for many
"People go to live where you don't have to spend too much," city resident Alberto Gallo said. "Many would like to remain, but they can't."
The city's population declined by a steep 100,000 from the 1950s to the 1980s, making today's fluctuations minimal by comparison.
"In all, fewer people are leaving than those who are arriving," Rumiz said, but "fewer children are being born in respect to the people who die."
"What is changing is the social base of Venice," she said, explaining that most of the people who are leaving are older while those arriving are "more educated and with better skills."
But who is a Venetian, really? Genetically, a National Geographic Study being conducted by experts from the Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Massachusetts intend to find out.
Researchers took advantage of Saturday's "funeral" to take saliva swabs to determine where most of the natives of Veneto — the larger region of which Venice is the capital — came from, northern Europe or lands around the Caspian Sea.
"It will be an opportunity to find a few Venetians," said Gallo, who is helping to organize the study.
