Battle of the Brands: Proactiv vs. AcneFree

Proactiv has cornered the 3-Step acne treatment market for years, but now there's a new kid on the block. For half the price, Acne Free promises to work better than its similar-looking rival. Street Cents put both kits to the test to see who comes out on top.

AcneFree could be a great product for Canadians - if it lives up to its claims - because it is available in stores all across Canada, unlike Proactiv which has limited availability outside the mail order option. We also asked a doctor to break down the differences between the kits to us so that we can see if you’re paying for quality or just the Jessica Simpson endorsement.

The Products

AcneFree can be found at Walmart and Shopper’s Drug Mart across Canada for about $29. The kit includes:

• 1) Purifying cleanser – 118 ml
• 2) Renewing toner – 118 ml
• 3) Repairing Lotion – 59 ml

The product contains as its active ingredient 3.7% benzoyl peroxide in the Clear Skin Treatment Repairing Lotion. It also makes some claims that Street Cents looked into, such as:

• For all skin types and ethnicities.
• For all ages – teens to adults.
• Fights Acne 24/7 – works 24/7 to help keep you Acne Free.
• Dermatologist preferred system for acne.
• AcneFree is "Significantly greater than PROACTIV in reducing acne"

Proactiv retails from $55 to $67 depending on where you buy it. If it’s by mail, add shipping and handling costs. Continuing with the kit for multiple months can be very expensive.

The kit contains:

• 1) Renewing Cleanser - 120 ml
• 2) Revitalizing toner - 120 ml
• 3) Repairing Lotion - 60 ml

And the active ingredient is 2.5% benzoyl peroxide in the Renewing Cleanser and 2.5% benzoyl peroxide in the Repairing Lotion.

Proactiv is well-known for its infomercials starring celebs such as P. Diddy, Jessica Simpson, Alicia Keys, Britney Spears, Vanessa Williams and Elle McPherson.

Anyone who orders the Proactiv system automatically becomes a member in the Proactiv Solutions Clear Skin Club. That means the company will automatically ship a new kit every two months. To opt out of the club, or change the rate that Proactiv products are delivered - customers have to call the customer service number and cancel their membership.

Both companies are on the right track when it comes to ingredients, say dermatologists that Street Cents spoke with. The active ingredient in both products is benzoyl peroxide which has been a pretty standard acne-fighting ingredient for years. However, there are two major differences in the ingredients in these products.

1. Benzoyl Peroxide

Both products are 3-Step skincare lines that use the active ingredient benzoyl peroxide. AcneFree contains 3.7% benzoyl peroxide in its repairing lotion, while Proactiv has 2.5% benzoyl peroxide in both the cleanser and repairing lotion. Street Cents asked dermatologists if the concentration or presence in different products would cause dramatically different results between the two products. Dr. Vicki Taraska, a cosmetic dermatologist, said that "benzoyl peroxide can help acne and the higher concentration - the more the effect. 3.7% is not much higher than 2.5% therefore the differences will be small." Dr. Lisa Kellett, dermatologist, confirmed that for the amount of benzoyl peroxide in the products the difference between 2.5 and 3.7 would really not be that significant in terms of results.

AcneFree in the US comes with a cleanser that contains benzoyl peroxide - but the Canadian kit doesn't. Street Cents asked doctors how greatly this would change users results. Dr. Taraska said the difference would "likely be small as cleansers can only remove so much oil and are washed away quickly. So the benzoyl peroxide in the lotions which stay on the skin allowing time for the medication to work is the most important."

Another difference is that AcneFree markets their benzoyl peroxide as "Time Released Benzoyl Peroxide." Neither doctor Street Cents spoke to knew specifically what this meant. Dr. Taraska summed it up by saying: "it must be market jargon to differentiate them from the competitors." She said generally time-released topical drug delivery systems, like the patch, release medication slowly over time and maintain a certain level of the medication throughout the day. Dr. Kellett said that if the benzoyl peroxide used in AcneFree was 'encapsulated' it could be released over time. University Medical, the makers of AcneFree, did not respond to Street Cents’ calls so we were unable to confirm whether or not the product actually has "time release."

The other small differences between the two lines is that the Proactiv Renewing Cleanser contains small granules - it's an 'exfoliating cleanser.' This is worth mentioning because if a cleanser has exfoliating properties, it will increase the absorption of the other ingredients in the product - like benzoyl peroxide. Dr. Kellett said the Proactiv product was exfoliating 'to some extent' while the AcneFree formula is not.

Proactiv also says their benzoyl peroxide is 'prescription-quality.' When Street Cents last looked into this claim several years ago, we spoke to Health Canada and they said the "word 'prescription' implies that a product is not available over the counter and that you need a recommendation from a health professional in order to get it. Health Canada says the Proactiv company is using a misleading term if they're using this word to describe a milling process or to explain that the product is more effective. AcneFree makes no similar claims about their benzoyl peroxide.

2. Glycolic Acid

The two companies’ formulations for toners differ. Notably, Proactiv has glycolic acid. Street Cents showed the list of toner ingredients to two dermatologists and asked if either set of ingredients may be more beneficial in treating acne. Dr. Taraska said that both toners are intended to take oil away from the skin and may do so, but she noted that "glycolic acid can help exfoliate the skin and unplug blocked pores which helps improve acne." Dr. Kellett said that "technically speaking, glycolic acid would help with skincare a little bit."

The Test

Our testers tried both acne treatments over a span of three weeks to see which one cured or improved their problem skin. They tested Proactiv on the right half of their face and AcneFree on the other. This is what they had to say.

AcneFree

• "The toner was really wet, the Proactiv one had more of a cleansing feel to it."
• "The cream just sat on your face."
• "It felt slimy."
• "Didn’t blend in with my skin, it just sat on my face like sunscreen."

Proactiv

• "It was easier to use."
• "It felt better on my face, like it may actually have been doing something – although it didn’t actually do anything for me."
• "Proactiv gave me a cleansing feel – my skin does look a lot better."
• "My skin is a little clearer and it feels better on the Proactiv side."

The Results

"I would choose Proactiv ‘cause it felt better and made a bit more of a difference than AcneFree."

"The results were the same for me but Proactiv was easier to use, felt better and smelt better."

While none of our testers were all too impressed with the results that either of the products gave them, they all pretty much agree that if you were to choose one, Proactiv should be it. But don’t be dismayed about problem skin now that our testers have discovered that Proactiv is not the solution to having skin like celebs. We spoke to dermatologists about other products that be effective in the battle against pimples.

Beyond Proactiv

Dr. Taraska made the point that these kits can help mild acne. "Just don't get sucked in by all the marketing and actresses hyping its success. Many over-the-counter products have more benzoyl peroxide in them and are less costly. See a dermatologist if you're not getting any results from these products - because there are many treatments available."

There are other kits on the market. Clearasil Ultra Acne Scare Care System is a new one being advertised in teen magazines. And about six months ago Neutrogena introduced Advanced Solutions: Acne Therapy System (with a salicylic acid cleanser, sunscreen day lotion and overnight acne control lotion with benzoyl peroxide at 3.0%) at $38.86 Canadian. Just like Proactiv and AcneFree doctors says there’s nothing wrong with these kits and some people do like the ease of a pre-packed system, but their best advice to teens with acne and limited budgets? "If you only had $10 in your pocket. Head to the drugstore and get a topical benzoyl peroxide treatment. There are lots available over-the-counter. And get a gentle cleanser….you don’t need the fancy kit with the infomercial."

The other point dermatologists wanted to emphasize to teens is that if you’re having scarring and really serious acne – you can't buy something for $10 for that. "Go in and get help. Go see a dermatologist. There are prescription treatments that will do more than these kits ever can. And remember too - you can treat acne, but you can't cure it," said Dr. Kellett.

And so Street Cents continues the search for the cure to acne, and we assure you we will not quit till we do! It’s a tough battle, but for you – we’re happy to forge on!