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Behind the Hype: Acne
With all the plethora of products, ads and remedies out there, Street
Cents realizes it can be hard figuring out exactly how to keep acne
under control. So we set the record straight on what you really need
to know to zap those zits.
Viewer Letter
I have a beef. In this culture there is a huge pressure on teens (and
adults) to have perfect skin, you know what I’m talking about...that
dreaded pimple.
There are so many products out there for skin hygiene. In my house
alone there are probably 5 different products to help with facial
acne, not including soap.
Ranging from things like pads (alcohol free and with alcohol), facial
washes (some claim to be oil-free), spot treatments (skin coloured
and clear) and many other products that we have or haven’t tried at
some point.
I want to know which products work the best, if they even do work
at all.
And what are some other things you can do to help get rid of the dreaded
pimple? Like washing your hands often, eating less of particular kinds
of food, I’ve even heard using toothpaste on the face can help.
Also what are some things that can be bad for the face, like make-up
or shaving cream?
Street Cents, please help me to bring some clarity to my problem and
my skin. I know that it’s not all about how you look, but how you
look does count.
Roderick Spencer,
Wellesley, ON.
Street Cents Response
The good news is you’re on the right track with these products Roderick.
Acne can’t be cured, but it can be treated. You just need a little
background. So here it is.
What causes acne?
Basically, sebum (the oily stuff your skin creates) and dead skin
clog your pores and hair follicles. Then bacteria gets in. That makes
the pores inflamed.
What to do?
The goals are:
1. Open up your pores by removing the dead skin.
2. Kill the bacteria.
3. Reduce inflammation.
Doing this is a two-step process. You don’t have to buy a whole line
of the products one company makes.
Step One
Cleanse your skin with a non-medicated cleanser. The medicating part
comes later. Dermatologists say you should cleanse with something
mild like Spectro Jel or Cetaphil. These are just two
examples, but there are lots of products out there. Be careful with
bar soaps. Many are too harsh and could irritate your skin. So keep
an eye out for products that say “mild” or for “sensitive skin.”
These kinds of products can range in price, but no need to break the
bank. More expensive doesn’t necessarily mean better.
Step Two
Get under your skin and into your pores. For this, keep an eye out
for two key ingredients:
Salicylic Acid
and Benzoyl Peroxide
Salicylic Acid, also sometimes called BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), is
an exfoliant (removes dead skin), disinfectant and anti-inflammatory
ingredient. But it can be irritating to your skin, so stop using it
if your skin gets too red!
Then, there’s Benzoyl Peroxide. This stuff is mainly a disinfectant
(kills bacteria), but it also dries and exfoliates.
You can use both ingredients, but it’s usually better to find out
which ingredient works best for you and stick with one. Look for these
concentrations in the acne products you buy:
Salicylic Acid – 0.5-2.0%
Benzoyl Peroxide - 2.5-10%
It’s a good idea to start with lower concentrations of these ingredients
until you figure out what your skin can tolerate.
Dermatologists say you should use the medicated products all over
your face, not just in one spot. Then just leave it on, don’t wash
it off. This will help prevent more pimples from popping up in the
future.
When you find the right products, stick to a routine. These things
take time and dedication. Dermatologists say you should do this routine
once or twice a day, depending on your skin or what you’re doing.
Sometimes you won’t notice a difference for weeks or even a couple
of months.
Brands and Gimmicks
As far as the main active ingredients go, there isn’t really anything
new in the fight against acne.
You may come across new kinds of packaging and methods of putting
the stuff on like pads, strips, masks, scrubs and swabs. But the ingredients
in the acne-treating products you get over-the-counter haven’t changed.
If you want to save money, stick with the plain stuff you use with
your fingers to put on.
Also, don’t bother relying on labels that say “Dermatologist Recommended”
or “Dermatologist Tested”. Dermatologists Street Cents talked to say
those terms could mean a lot of things. So just ignore them. They’re
not a good reason to buy one product over another. Just think about
the active ingredients and the price.
Stay away from…
Toothpaste
It’s called toothpaste for a reason. It’s abrasive and will only dry
out your skin for a short amount of time. Toothpaste won’t prevent
future breakouts.
Picking or squeezing
This irritates the skin and will only send the bacteria deeper into
the pore.
Tanning
This will dry up the skin for a short time, but it can eventually
lead to more oil and more pimples.
Harsh Products
There are things to watch out for that are actually made for your
face. Look out for toner, astringent and other products that contain
alcohol. They can irritate your face. Scrubs and anything else abrasive
can irritate your skin too. Your skin’s sensitive, don’t abuse it.
Oil-based products
When shopping for products like make-up, avoid oil-based stuff. Look
for the labels that say “non-comedogenic” or “non-acnegenic”.
That said, should teens who have acne be applying a moisturizer? Whether
or not to use a moisturizer on acne-prone skin is still up for debate.
Dermatologists we spoke to said it may help people with drier skin
tolerate the harsh products better, because skin that's drier to begin
with may be more sensitive to drying products than oily skin. Plus,
if you’re going to be outside, you should always be wearing something
with SPF in it.
Although there's still some debate, in general a healthy diet and
exercise help only in the sense that they help keep the whole body
healthy. But eating chocolate and greasy foods doesn't cause acne.
You might find certain foods have an effect on you. If that's the
case, avoid those foods.
However, new studies suggest stress or a high carbohydrate, high sugar
diet might aggravate, and even cause acne.
We hope that clears things up for you Roderick! Good luck!
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