The secrets behind perfect mashed potatoes revealed—just in time for the holidays!

By chef Jo Lusted

Serves 8

6 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about 2 lb.), peeled, cut into 1-in. chunks, rinsed and drained
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup whole milk, warmed
sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1. Cover and steam potatoes for 20-25 minutes in a steamer insert over a pot of boiling water. (Steaming reduces the amount of water absorbed by the potatoes.) Drain and discard water from pot, remove from heat.
2. For the fluffiest spuds, process potatoes into pot using a ricer or a food mill. Work in batches as required.
3. With a spatula, gently stir in butter with a pinch of salt before adding warm milk in order to coat potato starch in a layer of fat. Otherwise, water in milk will bind with starch and yield a gooey mash.
4. Add warm milk. Season with pepper and more salt to taste. Serve immediately.

Olive Oil and Lemon Mashed Potatoes

Swap butter for good extra-virgin olive oil, whole milk for Greek yogourt.

Add 2 tbsp each lemon juice and zest, 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh herbs (e.g. dill, flat-leaf parsley).

Coconut Milk and Cumin Mashed Potatoes

Swap butter for ghee, whole milk for coconut milk heated with 2 lime leaves.

Add 1/2 yellow onion, 2 cloves sautéed garlic, 1 tbsp toasted whole cumin seeds, 3 tbsp coarsely chopped fresh cilantro.

Lobster and Boursin Mashed Potatoes

Swap milk and butter for Boursin cheese and about 3 tbsp whole milk.

Add 1 1/2 cups cooked, chopped lobster meat (warmed), 3 tbsp chopped fresh chives.