When it comes to shopping for your anti-aging skincare, knowing what ingredients to look for is important. Our beauty expert Christine Cho came by to talk about how to find the right anti-aging ingredient for you!
1. SUN DAMAGED SKIN: KOJIC ACID
Very new discovery (only since 1989).
By-product in the fermentation process of malting for rice; used in manufacturing of sake.
Also from type of fungi: mushroom.
Used in food and cosmetics to preserve or change colours of substances (on cut fruits prevents oxidative browning; in seafood preserves pink and red colours; lightens skin topically).
Antibacterial and antifungal.
Very low percentages used (1% or less).
Lightens and brightens skin (reduces melanin production).
Age spot and freckle remover.
Caution: over-extended time may cause skin sensitivity which may lead to contact dermatitis...recommended to rotate products, especially when using any whitening products.
Caution: sensitivity to sun.
Peter Thomas Roth - Power K Eye Rescue (Sephora)
DDF (Doctor's Dermatologic Formula) - Fade Gel 4 (Sephora)
Kinerase - PhotoFacials Sun Damage Reversal System - Day Moisturizer with spf 50 (Sephora)
2. PREVENTITIVE: L-ASCORBIC ACID
A sugar acid.
One form of topical Vitamin C.
White to light-yellow crystals or powder.
Lots of scientific proof that it is very effective topical anti-aging agent, but not stable (when exposed to air, oxidation makes the vitamin C ineffective and potentially harmful.
Must be stored in dark, cold, non-metallic container.
Name comes from preventing and curing scurvy (lack of Vitamin C).
80% of world's supply produced in China.
Some animals naturally produce; humans cannot.
Two sides to all molecules...L = Levo, meaning left - good for skin and body at molecular level; D = dextro, meaning right - not good for skin: drying, itching, burning.
Unstable, tends to break down rapidly, so complicated for cosmetic prep, but topically on skin in skincare benefits...
Derivatives in other forms that are easier to stabilize are not effective; L-Ascorbic Acid the only effective form of Vitamin C.
Stabilized forms with high concentration are very expensive.
You can prepare your own vitamin C serum if you make fresh batches often and store properly (things like ferulic acid help stabilize).
Powerful antioxidant - neutralizes free radicals which otherwise destroy skin.
Stimulates collagen synthesis - important for body growth, tissue repair, wound healing.
Provides photoprotection (collagen decreases with age); stays in skin for up to 72 hours; prevents against UV damage; lightening and brightening
Skinceuticals C E Ferulic: (unprecedented 8 times the skin's natural protection against photoaging; contains 15% pure L-ascorbic acid) (Holt Renfrew spa)
Peter Thomas Roth - Mega Rich Intensive Anti-Aging Cellular Crème (Sephora)
Peter Thomas Roth - Mega Rich Intensive Anti-Aging Cellular Eye Crème (Sephora)
95% percent of the human body's energy is generated this way.
Ingested best through meat, fish, vegetable oils; or oil-based soft gel capsules.
3rd most sold dietary ingredient next to omega-3 and multivitamins.
Scientific studies show aids with heart health, migraine headaches, mitochondrial disorders; also being investigated for treatment of cancer... (studies with rats show longer life spans).
Anti-aging: boosts cell production.
Antioxidant: combats damage caused by harmful skincare element.
Nivea - Q-10 Advanced Wrinkle Reducer Night Crème (Shopper's Drug Mart)
Eucerin - Q-10 Anti-Wrinkle Sensitive Skin Crème (Shopper's Drug Mart)
Nivea for Men - Coenzyme Q-10 Revitalizing Double Action Balm (Shopper's)
How effective is CoQ10 in skin care?
Wrinkles appear when skin loses its elasticity. This is due to decreased collagen production and collagen crosslinking. Everyday life, cell metabolism, exposure to sun and other environmental factors, toxins, cigarette smoke - all result in production of free radicals. Those overactive pesky molecules or atoms have odd electrons on their orbits and try to find a balance. They either give away the odd electron or find a pair for it, thus making another molecule unstable, turning it into another free radical.
While this process is natural and unavoidable as a part of metabolism, too many free radicals cause dangerous chain reactions that destroy cellular compounds and can damage DNA, proteins and lipids (fats). When it comes to skin aging, free radicals interfere with collagen production and cause premature aging.
Coenzyme Q10 has exceptional antioxidant properties. Studies show that it can effectively counteract free radical damage and provide significant protection against UVA-induced depletion of cell membrane. In other words, it will prevent damage to collagen and elastin production process and help you avoid wrinkles.
CoQ10 is so powerful, it is able to reduce cancer tumors and minimize stroke consequences that are due to suddenly increased levels of free radicals. So when applied topically, it can provide extra protection for your skin and produce a dramatic anti-wrinkle effect. Note: Information in this article is not to be taken as a medical advise. Always consult your doctor if you need professional help.
Vitamin C Serum (10%)
Ingredients: ½ teaspoon l-ascorbic acid powder 3½ teaspoon distilled water (bottled water is fine, should be at room temperature) 1½ teaspoon propylene glycol or vegetable glycerin 1 amber or dark blue glass bottle
1. Make sure your glass bottle is sterile by boiling it in some hot water. You can also sterilize it with some rubbing alcohol. 2. Wait for the bottle to cool and dry completely. 3. Add the l-ascorbic acid to the bottle. 4. Add the distilled water. 5. Swish around the bottle or use a stirrer until all the l-ascorbic acid is dissolved. 6. Add the propylene glycol or glycerin (must be vegetable glycerin, however you can use Monistat Anti-Chafing gel if your skin is fine with silicones). 7. Mix well (cap the bottle and keep shaking until everything is blended or use a stirrer) and use up as early as possible.
You want to use a dark bottle because it prevents the l-ascorbic powder from oxidizing. L-ascorbic powder is destabilized when it reacts with light and/or heat, so store your homemade C serum in a cool, dark place.
Mix well and use up the C serum as early as possible because l-ascorbic acid is highly unstable. Make a new batch every few days because as time goes on, the l-ascorbic acid grows less potent.Make sure the l-ascorbic acid you buy is 100% with no additional ingredients. You can buy powder or crystals (from the vitamin section in your local health food store), but I like to use powder because it dissolves faster. Sometimes Vitamin C will just list "ascorbic acid" as its ingredient. If this is the case, call the company to see whether or not it's l-ascorbic acid. Also, make sure there are no unnecessary ingredients in the Vitamin C capsules you buy (such as sweeteners, rose hip oils, etc).
If you find this percentage of vitamin C to be too irritating, you can always add less l-ascorbic acid. If it's not strong enough, you can add more, but don't go over 20%.
GENERAL INFO ON ANTI-AGING INGREDIENTS & PRODUCTS:
Medicalization of beauty/skincare products.
Any products with "anti-aging" on label, price goes up.
Be cautious - look for ingredient order (some companies boast a product
has a certain ingredient because its a trend, but too low to be
Beneficial changes show over time...must use products regularly for certain time... Some changes faster than others.
Preventing wrinkles and damage easier than treating...should start early.
Be knowledgable and educated before shopping add one new product at a time into your skincare/beauty routine.