Johannesburg ready for a World Cup party
- Posted by Anjali Nayar
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David Sibusiso, middle, leads the Soweto Pale Ya Rona parade out of the Mfolo park in Soweto, Johannesburg. (Photo by Anjali Nayar)
Johannesburg, South Africa - It's the countdown to the World Cup.
This time Friday will be madness, as a select 94,700 people rush to Johannesburg's Soccer City stadium (the largest stadium in Africa) for the opening match - South Africa versus Mexico. Millions more, who don't have a ticket (me included), will swarm to open-air fan parks around the country and take in the crazy on giant screens.
For the last week, the atmosphere on the streets of Johannesburg has been electric. After 12 undefeated friendlies, the South African team, nicknamed Bafana Bafana (a term of endearment meaning 'The Boys'), have been elevated to all-new heights of stardom. South Africans are donning the side's yellow and green jerseys not just on the government-pushed Football Fridays, but every single day, washed or not.
Vendors have opened shop at intersections in the northern suburb of Sandton (a tourist hotspot), selling flags and other vehicle adornments. Canada's not in the Cup? No problem, buy a flag.
Most South Africans have opted to buy Speedo-like swimsuit material printed with their country's flag. It stretches snugly over side mirrors like tight little Speedo-ed buttocks. It actually reminds me of that flag-on-the-roof trend years ago in Quebec shortly after the 1995 referendum. At around 50 Rand ($7) a pop, whoever invented the Speedo accessories could easily be a millionaire by now.
In central Johannesburg, large crowds spontaneously break out into the diski dance (read: a coordinated line dance infused with various football moves). It's actually hard to ignore the diski - there are lessons offered pretty much everywhere - from salsa clubs to online tourist sites.
It goes like this: lift the ball; head, head; Table Mountain (shoulder stall); release and kick, kick; fake and pass. Last week even South African parliamentarians ended their session with a diski boogie.
And let's not even talk about the vuvuzelas. The long plastic horns, ostensibly descendant from an instrument fashioned out of a kudu horn, have become a fixture on the streets. There's even an organized orchestra set for the games. They are often the first thing I hear in the morning and the last before bed. Solo the instrument sounds like a bleating sheep, and from far and en masse, like a dizzying swarm of bees. More than once while out on the streets shooting pictures of them, I temporarily lost my hearing ability. Just imagine what it's going to be like game-day.
With the final countdown nearing, it's true that not everything is perfect. Vendors hoping to benefit from the games have been banned from selling their goods anywhere near stadiums. Some of the road work and other infrastructure created for the Cup is scrambling together at the last minute (and won't be paid off for decades). And there have been serious problems with ticket vending in-country. There is also no lack of press on how much FIFA will profit from the games, while South Africa is left in debt. I'll discuss all these issues in the days to come.
But despite the practical hiccups and sorry side-stories, I still think it's pretty remarkable that this event is taking place in a country where as little as 20 years ago, the colour of your skin determined your place in society by law. South Africa is healing - for the entire world to see.
There ARE ongoing racial tensions in-country, striking injustices and even xenophobia, exemplified by last year's violence towards immigrants from neighbouring African nations. But this Cup, this event, can do nothing, if not to help the healing, at least temporarily.
The beauty of the event was put in perspective on Saturday, during the annual Pale Ya Rona festival in Soweto, Johannesburg's largest township. You can check out my photo essay.
The parade did a six-kilometre loop through the township, past rows of quaint stone and brick houses, and down Vilakazi street, a pillar of the anti-apartheid movement. Vilakazi is the home of two Nobel Laureates, Archbishop Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela, who both spent their lives fighting for the equality of all South Africa's colours.
In his book Long Walk to Freedom, Mandela said this about returning to his home, No. 8115 Vilakazi Street, after 27 years in prison:
"That night I returned with Winnie to No. 8115 in Orlando West. It was only then that I knew in my heart I had left prison. For me, No. 8115 was the centre point of my world, the place marked with an X in my mental geography."
A couple decades later, when I visited, the historic street was a whirl of colour, song, dance and energy. The youth of Soweto stormed the streets with dance moves reminiscent of a 1980s Run D.M.C. music video. They were followed by giant puppets and ornate floats. Everything was soaked in a good deal of football fervour: jerseys, Speedos and, oh yes, the vuvuzelas.
Amoung the crowds watching were white Afrikaners, some of whom had never before set foot in a township, local Soweto mums in their housedresses and a bunch of foreign tourists. White, black and every shade between.
That's what this Cup is all about. Bringing together South Africa and bringing together the world. I can't wait.
Let the games begin.
Check out a short video of my time in Cameroon.
Follow my adventures during the World Cup in real-time on Twitter
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Date Match Time Sun. July 11 Netherlands vs Spain 12:30 ET

About the Author
Anjali Nayar
Anjali Nayar is a Canadian journalist based in Nairobi, Kenya. She's reported from the back-alleys of the African continent for the last four years for the CBC, Reuters and the BBC, covering everything from politics to the politics of sport. From training with Kenya's elite runners to cheering on Burundi's footballing president, Anjali uses sport to learn a little more about the world.

















