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Travelling alone and beating the odds
- May 16, 2008 3:44 PM |
- By Your Voice
Travelling alone is an adventure within itself, but imagine backpacking through remote parts of the world when your main mode of transportation happens to be a wheelchair.
Walt Balenovich has explored Zambia to Indonesia with little more than his wits, a smile and his trusty blue chair. You can read about his adventures in his new book "Travels in a Blue Chair: Alaska to Zambia, Ushuaia to Uluru."
Walt Balenovich
On Thursday, May 22 he took your questions on the joys of travelling alone, how to prepare for your first solo trip, and overcoming adversity in places that may not be wheelchair friendly.
Read his answers below.
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Comments (20)
What countries do you find the most accepting of your disability and which are the most well equipped to handle wheelchair accessibility.
Walt Balenovich: Ironically, in my experiences the most accepting countries are the ones least equipped.
South America and Asia are tough ones if you are in a chair, but the people will trip all over themselves to help you out, even physically if necessary, and they do it happily with a smile. I think they are surprised to see me on my own, and it gets to them! Europe, Australia-NZ and N. America are the easiest, but sometimes people are not jumping up to help.
Once, when I was in eastern Europe, I couldn't get anyone to help me off the train from Vienna, and I almost went back to Austria. It was only when an old lady who was mopping up, yelled at the rail workers to assist me, that I finally could be on my way!
Thanks for sharing your adventures with us.
I would very much like to know what it is that makes you do the adventures you do. I am healthy and ablebody yet I have only dreamt of adventure and never seem realize them. What feeds your determination, your drive to seek and realize your plans? I want to move and go beyond mere dreams.
Thanks again.
Karl
Walt Balenovich: I used to watch nature shows on TV with my dad when I was a kid, so I suppose I got a glimpse of other countries and cultures at an impressionable age.
I only went overseas when an old university buddy asked me to visit him in Kenya, if I was interested, as he had sent his wife and children home, but still had his house for five more months. We travelled the whole country and had a great time. It opened my eyes to the fact that if you can get on a plane, it will take you anywhere. What you do after that is up to you.
The next trip overseas was alone on Eu-Rail for a month across Europe. After that I was hopelessly addicted. So come on Karl, just get out there! If I can do it, you can too!
I really admire what you do and wish I could travel so much! How do you finance all your travels?
Walt Balenovich: I work as a consultant in Information Technology, so after a contract concludes, I have saved up some money and have the time to travel. When I get home, I look for another contract. Mind you, I am not staying at five star hotels, as I am backpacking on a budget.
Do you find that a portable bicycle pump is useful in your travels?
Walt Balenovich: I have had a flat tire on every continent on this planet, but I don't take a pump with me (they are quite small now, so maybe I should?), instead I bring spare tubes with me. In Kenya, I had a flat, but the only tubes they had there were 26", and my chair takes 24".
Solution? The Kenyans lopped 2" off their tube, glued it together and it held up the rest of the trip! Great stuff! Of course, it went flat just after I returned home, but I didn't care.
How do you keep yourself occupied on your solo trips so you dont get bored. Im in a wheelchair and plan to travel alone soon but i dont want to get bored on the trip.
Walt Balenovich: It is hard for me to get bored on a trip overseas, but if it rains I go to the museums and do all the indoor things that many people enjoy. I also stay at backpackers hostels so I meet many other travellers who are alone. They come in all ages, are from many countries, and have become some of my best friends. They are great to talk to, or go to pubs and travel with.
The last story in my book is entitled "The Happy Ending." It is about an English guy and a Dutch girl, both backpackers, who insist I nudged them together. He asked me to meet up with her in Australia, and when I did, all she did was talk about him. I emailed him that she liked him and a few months later they were living together back in Europe.
When they recently got married, I attended and was sitting right next to the bride!
Where do you sleep? Camping, private homes...?
Walt Balenovich: I usually sleep in backpackers hostels, many of which are now wheelchair friendly. Also, they are low budget, which is important if you are away for a few months. Surprisingly, many are now located just steps from all the major points of interest that you want to be.
My problem is that sometimes I forget that the first floor on all other continents is Floor 0. So, when I book a dorm room (lower bunk, of course), I sometimes insist on the first floor, forgetting that it is actually the second level. If there is no elevator in the building, then I am in trouble, but I can always smile and ask for a lift up/down. Backpackers are always there to lend a friendly hand.
Do you believe that you could have accessed all the same places had you been in an electric wheelchair? How did you go about finding accessible transportation in areas where there wasn't any?
Walt Balenovich: No, probably not, at least not the remote destinations. Electric chairs can be more problematic from a logistical point of view (bulkiness, batteries-recharging and getting on flights), but having said that there are still lots of places to go and see.
Start with the countries that have modern facilities, just like I did, and plan your trip carefully. Perhaps contact www.sath.org which is the non-profit Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality. I'm sure they have lots of experience with electric chairs.
My first trip alone overseas was to Europe, and I landed in Holland, because it was flat, had the amenities I needed and they spoke English widely. I wanted to build up my confidence.
As a parent of fulltime wheelie I often travelled abroad with fairly good success. However, now that my son is older and wise enough to travel on his own the task seems dauanting. Abled bodies people have a suitcase and a wallet, disabled people have these things in addition to : wheelchairs, batteries, incontenance supplies(can you get what you need in the country you are going to?) Abled bodied people can access public toilets much easier than disabled people.
For instance, here in Ontario the MTO is undergoing major renovations for the "fuel/rest stops" along the 401 HWY corridor. Even though building code will require wheelchair access at these facilities there are still issues for persons who travel solo or need attendent care to do so. Accessible FAMILY toilet facilities in each travel centre would accomodate the individual his/her wheels and and attendant if needed. Ever try to help yuor toddler in a public toilet stall -- try that with a parapeligic toodler (cant stand)and a wheelchair and dont forget mom has to be in there also to help.
My quesiton:
Accessibility of public toilets in foriegn counties and the availablility of incontinence supplies should you need them. The issue of incontinenace is embrrassing yet a fact of life that able bodies people take for granted.
Jackie Dorssers (parent & social worker)
Walt Balenovich: Public washrooms are definitely a challenge. I have learned over the years that simply bringing a plastic cup with me to urinate in, will save lots of problems. If the stall is not wide, then I just use the cup and dump it in the urinal. When I have to do the other thing, I always scout around to find a McDonalds or public building to use, as they are wheelchair friendly almost everywhere in the world.
Washing up in the morning is also a big challenge if I can't find a friendly shower. So, I use my trusty, handy-dandy facecloth to wash all over from a sink. After a week or so, that thing could stand up by itself, but it gets the job done!
We are taking our two boys (both use wheelchairs) to London UK for a holiday this summer - any hints on getting around in london?
Walt Balenovich: Getting around will be no problem. All the double decker buses are now wheelchair friendly, I used them all the time. Also, the rails and cabs are great. Some Tube stations are not yet accessible so check out their website to get all the info. I was in London only briefly, but I also think many of the Thames river tours are friendly. The only problem may be taking a London tour bus, but if you can lift the kids on/off, then that shouldn't be a bother. You will have a great time!
Cobblestones. Thoughts?
Walt Balenovich: Cobblestones are my arch enemy. If you are going to be in a cobbled country use larger diameter front wheels, to help minimize the bumpety bump. Also, in Holland and Belgium I have used the bicycle paths with great success, but be prepared to hear many of those maddening ringing bells coming up from behind you.
My problem is tree roots and rocks! I fell out of my chair in Zambia and broke my leg. A few blurry X-rays, an Egyptian doctor and a cast later, I was back on the planes for a brief 34 hours to come home. It was an experience.
How do you deal with accessibility issues?
I had a heck of a time with a trip from North Bay to Kingston by bus. No assistance available and the booked wheelchair accessible greyhound bus never showed up.
Walt Balenovich: Buses are the toughest form of transportation and least accessible overseas, and here sometimes. I try to use railways and planes as much as possible. I love taking boat or ferry rides too, as once you are on, the world simply floats by! I also check the internet to see if public transport is accessible in the cities I am visiting.
In Chile, I was at the backpacker's hostel watching a tour company give a seminar on their bus trips to Patagonia. I was just attending for the free drinks, but then the guide leaned over to me and asked if I was coming? I answered that I'd love to, but he and his driver would have to help me on/off the bus and into the washrooms each morning. He insisted they would, so I went 1000 km., down the Pan American highway to Patagonia! They helped me everywhere and by the end of the trip we were the three hermados (brothers). You sometimes get help even when you aren't expecting it.
How do you work out the logistics of your trip? From touring the sites you see, to getting to the airport? Do you use an agent or do it all yourself?
Walt Balenovich: I'm weird (all my friends will agree), and so I do things for myself. It is much more fun and informative that way. I usually plan and arrange the hostel for the first few nights in a new town or country, but then I just ask other backpackers for suggestions on where to go and what to do. They are always in the know.
There is usually a van or train to get you from the airport to where you are going. Before the internet existed, it was really tough to plan. I remember it was impossible to find anything cheap and wheelchair friendly in Fiji, so I resigned myself to sleeping under a coconut tree. I ended up on the Coral Coast in a small budget hotel and had a wonderful time. I found out about it at the tourist booth in the airport.
By the way, it is my friends who urged me to write this book after reading all of the emails I wrote home outlining the funny stories, reactions and adventures I have enjoyed over the years.
Walt: The answers may be in your book (which I will definitely read), but want to ask about how you handle luggage and gear. I am not in a chair, but as a post-polio individual, walk with one crutch and at 59 am not as agile as I once was. As a photographer, I have gear as well as luggage. I do travel light compared to many other photographers, but still can need assistance with gear, especially when I use my 4x5 camera and tripod.
What approach do or would you take to getting assistance when you need a porter ... for free!
Walt Balenovich: I used to be on crutches, but when I moved out on my own, I moved into a chair. I was already used to it from playing basketball and rugby, so I knew it was faster and more reliable (I used to fall down a lot and break limbs).
I only have my knapsack hanging from the back of my chair, and another sports bag on my lap. I have just enough clothes for a week, all old stuff to start with (which are replaced by my tourist T-shirts), and a thin towel and facecloth. The rest is photographic equipment, as you have, but as for getting assistance, if you smile and ask for help, people will always assist.
I recommend hanging on to your valuable things and let the others carry your clothes and replaceable items. As for getting it for free, perhaps asking a fellow traveller to wear a backpack for you? I hope you enjoy your trip, there is plenty to photograph on this blue world!
If anyone reading does get "Travels in a Blue Chair," I know you'll enjoy it.
Hopefully it will motivate you to get out and travel!
Do you get travel insurance for your trips?
Walt Balenovich: Yes, I just get the standard "out of the country" insurance. When I broke my leg in Africa, they paid up very quickly. In fact, I made money on the exchange rate for Zambian Kwatchas!
not a question but just a compliment I ahve read all you responses to all these question, I have served in Afgahanistan,Bosnia and Cyprus and have seen quite alot I have alot of admiration for you and what you have accomplished I will be purchaseing your book and am sure I will ejoy reading of your adventures. Have a good one.
Walt Balenovich: Thanks for the praise Rick, and I am sure that all the readers of this will join me in thanking you and your fellow soldiers for all you guys are doing overseas! A safer world is an easier world to travel in, and a better world in which to live.
What safety precautions do you take?
Walt Balenovich: Nothing out of the ordinary. I always keep my wallet in the front pocket to minimize the worry of pickpockets. I also keep a nominal amount of money in my pocket for buying daily things, so that I am not flashing an open wallet around, in case I have just retrieved money from the ATM or travellers cheques. Other than that, I think safety is a matter of common sense and luck.
I am newly in a wheelchair, (semi-paraplegic due to an auto accident last year.) I find that I feel very vulnerable in cities alone in my chair. I am middle aged. I find it incredible that you travel alone! What do you do from feeling vulnerable to things like robbery and possibly rape
Walt Balenovich: Well, I am not female, so I cannot comment on your rape question. But, having said that, I stay in backpacker hostels, so meet lots of other travellers. Generally, those of us who are on our own, will form friendly, compatible groups and travel together. When I started backpacking alone I always worried about worst case scenarios, but human nature is great, and people really seem to want to help me out. The wheelchair and a smile really bring out the best in people, and smiles don't need translation!
How long do you prepare for your trip?
Walt Balenovich: It varies, but usually I plan a month in advance. I try to decide a route, then scour the internet or books to find interesting places to visit. Then I see if airlines have any multi-stop cheapie air passes. If not, I will book rail trips to see an interesting destination. I try to keep the planning to a minimum and let the flow of the trip take me to the adventure!
Hi Walt, I am a computer consultant in an electric wheelchair that also travels quite a bit. The single biggest obstacle I have is the airlines damaged my chair almost every second trip. I even bought an electric wheelchair designed for airline travel that is basically indestructible and at the same time is only 130 LBS with airplane approved gel batteries installed. I have won countless judgments against Air Canada filled with Canadian transport agency. But in the end I almost get the feeling that the airline would be happy if I didn’t fly. What airlines have you found the best so far?
Walt Balenovich: My favourite question from airline staff prior to boarding is "Can you walk?" ... "Uh, no". I have found that most western airlines are not bad these days. Ryan Air in the UK is tricky because you must ring them to let them know you are in a chair, as they only allow up to four on any flight.
The best airlines for the disabled in my experience are KLM, Air New Zealand, and Lufthansa.
In Johannesburg, Nationwide Airlines tried to charge me $50 to use their Personal Assistance Unit (PAU), a box on a forklift used to get wheelchairs up to the plane door. I refused and stuck my foot in the departure door shouting "Apartheid is not dead in South Africa!". Finally some other passengers decided to help lift me up the stairs and then the young airline staff couldn't take my chant any longer and also helped.
As far as I was concerned, I had paid my fare and it was their responsibility to get me on/off the plane. The staff manually carried me off when I got to my destination. So you always encounter some problems, but usually these days, things go quite smoothly in my manual chair.
Walt, first I want to thank you for doing this and showing that we disabbled people are still people and can do things just sometimes a little different then able bodied people. I have been in a chair 17 years now and have done many things people did not think I could or should. Of all your adventures what do you feel is the one thing that you have done that surprised people most if not also yourself? Either by where you toured or tried. Thanks and hope you continue your adventures for all people young and old that may never get the chance to do what you are. Congradulations !!!
Walt Balenovich: I think most people are surprised that I have been to all 6 habitable continents backpacking by myself. Even many average people travel with others.
I am not an elite athlete, as I am a cross between a paraplegic and a quadriplegic. I move slowly and at my own pace, but I get to see the world in slow motion, and from my own waist-level vantage point.
I think that spending a month on Eu-Rail was really challenging. I got kicked out of my hostel at one point, when it was all booked up the next day. I had to go back to the station to find a train to sleep on. There was one going to Istanbul, so I slept on that one and decided that wherever it stopped in the morning, was where I would get off.
It paused in Budapest, and I was a bit scared, but a young Bulgarian guy was touting places to stay and told me he'd take care of me. I ended up in a university dorm, right beside the Danube and had a great time! So, you just never know what adventure will happen next in a blue chair!