Venetians hold funeral march to mark population decline
Last Updated: Saturday, November 14, 2009 | 3:57 PM ET
The Associated Press
Venetians march during a mock funeral procession on Saturday. (Luigi Costantini/Associated Press)Historic Venice is approaching the dread status of living museum, with a population now below 60,000 — a largely symbolic threshold considered by some to signal the end of the city's viability.
As native Venetians flee in droves to the mainland for cheaper housing and easier living, those who have stayed marked their modern-day demise with a mock funeral procession Saturday down the Grand Canal.
A few dozen gondolas, led by a pink one carrying a flower-draped coffin, snaked down the inverted S-shaped canal before docking in front of Ca' Farsetti — the palazzo housing Venice's City Hall — where hundreds of Venetians joined the procession.
Venice city officials say reports of the city's death are premature. In fact, while the population of the historic centre — the piazzas and alleyways that surround the canal — dipped to 59,992 in recent weeks, as of Thursday it was officially 60,025.
"They will have the funeral in a living village, not yet dead. And it won't die, even if it goes to 59,999," Mara Rumiz, the city official in charge of demographics, said in a telephone interview Friday.
She said the numbers don't take into account the inhabitants of Venice's islands — including glass-making Murano and the Lido beach — nor the many who are not officially registered, including students. Together, they add another 120,000 souls.
But Venice must still resist becoming merely a tourist destination, Rumiz said.
"It is evident that Venice has to safeguard its residents and attract new inhabitants. If not, we risk that Venice becomes only a tourist mecca, and this is a destiny that we don't want," Rumiz said.
Hassles with transportation in daily living
While wandering the narrow allies and waterways of Venice is a tourist's delight, life in Venice is for the hardy and financially resilient.
Housing costs and rents drop to as much as a third in the nearby city of Marghera. And consider the logistics of an everyday errand like grocery shopping. One would likely need a water taxi ride to a supermarket, another to get home with the groceries and then, with few elevators in residential buildings, a heavy load to lug upstairs. Historic Venice does not permit the comfort of a car parked outside the door.
Yet as if to echo Rumiz's underlying optimism about Venice's fate, Saturday's mock funeral ended with an unexpected bright look to the future.
After a black-caped actor read poetry in Venetian dialect bemoaning the problems of life in the lagoon city, the funeral's "pallbearers" smashed open the coffin and pulled out a flag of La Fenice — phoenix in Italian — the mythical winged creature that rises from ashes and is a symbol of rebirth.
The significance of the phoenix is particularly acute for Venetians, since their own La Fenice opera house rose from its own ashes and reopened in 2003 after being destroyed by a fire set by electricians in 1996.
After the surprise ending to the funeral, participants uncorked sparkling wine to toast Venice's rebirth and hope for the future.
Venetians themselves would like to see more money put toward retaining natives, and are critical of such projects as the new Calatrava Bridge over the Grand Canal. Building the bridge, designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, ran well over projected costs while doing little to ease the lives of average Venetians.
City too expensive for many
"People go to live where you don't have to spend too much," city resident Alberto Gallo said. "Many would like to remain, but they can't."
The city's population declined by a steep 100,000 from the 1950s to the 1980s, making today's fluctuations minimal by comparison.
"In all, fewer people are leaving than those who are arriving," Rumiz said, but "fewer children are being born in respect to the people who die."
"What is changing is the social base of Venice," she said, explaining that most of the people who are leaving are older while those arriving are "more educated and with better skills."
But who is a Venetian, really? Genetically, a National Geographic Study being conducted by experts from the Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Massachusetts intend to find out.
Researchers took advantage of Saturday's "funeral" to take saliva swabs to determine where most of the natives of Veneto — the larger region of which Venice is the capital — came from, northern Europe or lands around the Caspian Sea.
"It will be an opportunity to find a few Venetians," said Gallo, who is helping to organize the study.
Share Tools
Top News Headlines
- Oda's travel expenses cause dissent in Tory caucus
- Conservative MP John Williamson, who was once head of the Canadian Taxpayers Federation, has raised the issue of International Co-operation Minister Bev Oda's spending habits behind closed doors with the Conservative caucus. more »
- Canada accused of 'complicity' in torture in UN report
- The United Nations Committee Against Torture has condemned what it calls Canadian "complicity" in torture and human rights violations of Muslim men caught up in the post-9/11 security net. Terry Milewski has exclusive details. more »
- Diamond Jubilee: Your photos of royal encounters
- The CBC Community team asked you to submit your best photos of the Queen's visits to Canada, or visits by any member of the Royal Family. The result was tremendous! more »
- Helicopter crash kills 3 near Terrace, B.C.

- All three people aboard a helicopter that went down west of Terrace, B.C., died in the crash, the aircraft's owners say. more »
Latest World News Headlines
- George Zimmerman ordered back to jail
- A judge on Friday revoked the bond of the neighbourhood watch volunteer charged with killing 17-year-old Trayvon Martin and ordered him returned to jail within 48 hours. more »
- UN rights body condemns Syria over massacre
- The UN's top human rights body voted overwhelmingly Friday to condemn Syria over the slaughter of more than 100 civilians last week, but Damascus appeared impervious to the crescendo of global condemnation following a string of horrific massacres. more »
- Gaza border clash kills Palestinian militant, Israeli soldier
- A Palestinian militant infiltrated into Israel and set off a shootout that left the infiltrator and one Israeli soldier dead, the military says. more »
- Missing Kansas girl found safe
- A 12-year-old Kansas girl was found safe in Michigan on Friday, a day after her parents said they believed she left her home with a Canadian man she met on the internet. more »
Dispatches »
- Child "bomberitos" on Peru's most dangerous highway May. 31, 2012 3:34 PM The bomberito children of the Andes hitch homemade carts to passing transport trucks -- to aid motorists and victims of disasters in mountains that were once the domain of Peru's Shining Path rebels. They risk their lives for tips that help feed their families.
Connect Newsroom Blog
The Hunt for Magnotta and #bullyPROOF May. 31, 2012 7:32 PM Tonight we'll take you deep inside the dark recesses of the internet for a closer look what's being posted and who watching it.
- Murder suspect Magnotta accused of harassing PM
- Helicopter crash kills 3 near Terrace, B.C.
- Oda's travel expenses cause dissent in Tory caucus
- Body-parts victim a Chinese student in Montreal
- Toronto's Union station reopened after flooding
- Dead B.C. man eaten by bear ID'd as convicted killer
- George Zimmerman ordered back to jail
- Ex-friend says Magnotta not 'natural-born killer'
- Edmonton teacher suspended for giving 0s

