TRAVEL
Off the beaten track
Hiking in New Zealand has something for everyone
Last Updated: Thursday, October 22, 2009 | 1:58 PM ET
By Vawn Himmelsbach, Special to CBC News
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The Kepler Track in New Zealand provides a spectacular view of Lake Manapouri. If you want to hike this or one of the country's other Great Walks, you'd be wise to book a spot early. (Vawn Himmelsbach) One of the best and most economical ways to see New Zealand is to tramp your way through it. That, in Kiwi-speak, means hiking. And New Zealand has, arguably, some of the best tramping in the world.
Here you'll find a little bit of everything, from mountains to volcanoes to fiords to glaciers to beaches — all surrounded by primeval forests. With some of the oldest plant forms on earth, you'll feel like you're on the set of Jurassic Park.
Unlike its neighbour Australia, which has a wide variety of things that can kill you, such as venomous snakes, poisonous spiders and saltwater crocs, New Zealand is home to penguins, dolphins and the elusive kiwi — no dangerous mammals or reptiles to attack you while tramping. So no bear spray or anti-venom required.
Book early
New Zealand is sparsely populated, but tourism — and tramping in particular — was taking a toll on its unique ecosystem. So the Department of Conservation (DOC) stepped in with a booking system for its nine most popular tramps, called the Great Walks, to avoid overcrowding and reduce the impact on the environment.
The South Crater is seen on the Tongariro Crossing, one of New Zealand's popular Great Walks. (Vawn Himmelsbach) This requires you to buy hut or campsite passes for each night of a tramp. The most popular routes have a booking system that guarantees a bunk for the night, while others have accommodations on a first-come-first-served basis. You can book a Great Walk online with the DOC, but you may have to reserve a spot as much as a year in advance.
While at first this booking system may seem annoying, you'll be grateful for the peace and quiet on the tracks (and it makes New Zealand one of the safest options for solo trekkers).
Besides, there are ways around this if, like me, you can't plan anything two weeks in advance, let alone a year. There are often last-minute cancellations, so an option is to show up at the local Visitor Centre early in the morning to see if there's an opening that day. I did this several times, and the longest I had to wait for a spot was one day.
And there are literally hundreds of tramps around the country that see a lot less foot traffic.
Accommodations
When it comes to tramping, the Kiwis know what they're doing. You'll find an organized system of backcountry huts, complete with bunks and gas stoves for cooking. Many tramps evolved from Maori trails or pioneer exploration routes, but some, like the Kepler Track, were designed as a round-trip route for trampers.
Aside from being the best way to see the natural beauty of New Zealand, it's also quite possibly the cheapest way to see it — especially if you hitchhike, camp and eat canned beans. On average, it costs from $5 NZ to $45 per night (about $4 to $35 CDN) to camp or reserve a bunk in a hut on one of the Great Walks. There are no fees to enter the parks.
Here are a few of my favourite tramps (so far) in New Zealand:
The Northern Circuit & Tongariro Crossing
The Northern Circuit provides a view of the Oturere Valley. (Vawn Himmelsbach) This could be one of the most incredible landscapes you'll ever experience, as you tramp 41 kilometres past volcanic steam vents, lava flows, crater lakes and glacial valleys (think Mordor, from Lord of the Rings — this is where they filmed it for the movie trilogy). The track crosses between two volcanoes, Mt. Ngauruhoe and Mt. Tongariro, with views of Mt. Ruapehu, the highest volcano on the North Island. It's typically walked in a clockwise direction over four to five days.
The track starts in Whakapapa, where it winds through red tussock and mountain hebe before heading into the lava flows of the Mangatepopo Valley and up the aptly named Devil's Staircase. You'll then pass between the South Crater and Red Crater where, if it's not too foggy, you can catch a glimpse of the also appropriately named Emerald Lakes (you may start feeling like Frodo at this point).
The Tongariro Crossing is considered New Zealand's best day walk, so the track can be busy — but if you continue on to do the complete Northern Circuit, there might not be another soul in sight as you descend into a surreal landscape of lava formations, cascading waterfalls and beech forests. Huts are $25 NZ per night in the peak season and $15 off-peak; campsites are $20 and $10.
Abel Tasman Coast Track
The Abel Tasman Coast Track links crescents of golden sand along the Tasman Sea. (Vawn Himmelsbach) This is an easy walking trail that links crescents of golden sand along the Tasman Sea on a northern stretch of the South Island. The 52-kilometre track, linking four huts and 21 campsites, can be completed in three to five days, but keep in mind that some sections can only be crossed at low tide.
The track is accessible from the town of Marahau, with regular bus service from Nelson and Motueka. There's also a water taxi service, which means it's possible to enter or leave the track at any point (there's no charge for day walks).
You can choose a combination of tramping and kayaking along the coast or to nearby islands to spot fur seals and penguins. Or take time to snorkel under granite outcrops. A hut is $30 in peak season and $12 off-peak; campsites are $12 and $8.
Routeburn Track
The 32-km-long Routeburn Track straddles the Humboldt Mountains. (Vawn Himmelsbach) If you're looking for more of a challenge in remote, untouched wilderness, the Routeburn is arguably one of the best alpine tramps in New Zealand.
The track straddles the Fiordland's Humboldt Mountains, and from its highest point, Conical Peak near Harris Saddle, you'll see snow-capped peaks stretching all the way out to the Tasman Sea. You might even see a kea — the world's only mountain parrot.
This 32-km track usually takes three to four days, with four huts and two campsites along the way. You'll tramp through moss-covered forests and tussock clearings, cross swing-bridges and pass pristine lakes, and climb up to the snowline along a sub-alpine section of track. A hut is $45 in peak season and $15 off-peak; camping is $15 and $5.
Other notable tramps on New Zealand's Great Walks network include the Milford Track, Kepler Track, Heaphy Track, Lake Waikaremoana Track, and Rakiura Track (on Stewart Island). The Whanganui Journey is actually a paddling trip, but is part of the Great Walks network.
So, pack your jumper (sweater), torch (flashlight), togs (bathing suit) and maybe even a hottie (hot water bottle), and take a tiki tour (the long route) through Aotearoa — a Maori word that translates as the Land of the Long White Cloud. You don't need big bickies (lots of money) to see New Zealand — just a reliable pair of well-worn hiking boots.
Vawn Himmelsbach is a Canadian freelance writer who has traveled the world, visiting some of the most off-the-beaten-path destinations on the planet.
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