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Driving into Kandahar City

Comments (13)
By Kandahar Dispatch
By David Common


Kandahar City

Cameraman Marc Robichaud and I dashed in to Kandahar City the other day. I say dashed because that's exactly what you have to do. The city is a very dangerous place for westerners so when we go, it's a short visit. No time to visit the dry cleaners, if you catch my drift.

We dress in the traditional shalwar kameez (many people call it a pajama top) which is very comfortable and airy in southern Afghanistan's often overpowering heat. We know full well that we aren't fooling anyone who can see us up close, especially with my blondish hair. But the idea is to keep as low profile as possible, including on the drive there.

Local attire
Cameraman Marc Robichaud, left, and reporter David Common in local attire. (CBC)

Speaking of the drive, whether you are a Western journalist on a fast visit or a Kandahar fruit seller the rules of the road seem the same. There aren't any. Honk lots, try not to crash, and get out of the way when you are honked at.

Here's a video of a bit of the drive experience taken with my little digital camera (Runs 2:10).

Delivery truck
An overstuffed truck making its deliveries. (CBC)

Our destination was Mirwais hospital. Afghans who are injured in the ongoing fighting, in NATO or American aircraft bombing raids, in car accidents or from one of the many illnesses out there, usually end up here.

It's a dire place. There are patients in the hallways, overcrowding, and general despair. But it's a lot better. Really.

I was first at Mirwais more than five years ago. There were bodies in the hallways, no clear triage system, perhaps one doctor, no efficient medical waste disposal system and dirt everywhere.

The hospital today is much cleaner. The patients have whiteboards above their beds noting their diagnosis, condition, medications and what have you. It's miles from perfect but it is an improvement. That can't be said a lot these days in southern Afghanistan and probably should be when it can.

Kandahar Airfield

Conversely, the Kandahar Airfield (or KAF as it's known) is constantly growing and building. When I was first here more than five years ago, the U.S. Marines had basically just seized the place, fighting at what has become known as the TLS, Taliban Last Stand, a building where…surprise…the Taliban made their last stand. (If you haven't been keeping up with the news lately, they’ve returned, just not to that same building).

In 2002, when a soldier needed to urinate, it was done by gingerly evacuating one's bladder into a long tube hammered in to the ground. Today, there are fully fledged toilets attached to a sewer system and a sewage treatment plant (which emits a wonderful odour when the collection is stirred every night). All the electricity is generated locally (by diesel - not so environmentally friendly, I know) and food is either trucked or flown in to the base from Pakistan or a myriad of other countries in the region.

There are roads, recreation facilities, a very popular Tim Hortons (I think there are more British and American soldiers there than Canadian) and even a Burger King, a Subway and a duty-free store. Soldiers can buy fruit smoothies here, while others practice their heavy weaponry on the nearby range.

Speaking of weapons, they're carried everywhere. Something like 20,000 weapons on this base alone.

All of this to say, trying to bridge the worlds of this base and the city is a challenge. They are so different, it's astounding. My colleagues in Israel have often talked about the difficulty processing the short drive in to the Gaza Strip. It's something like that here.

Kandahar-Spin Boldak taxi
A makeshift taxi service transports passengers from Kandahar to the border town of Spin Boldak, Afghanistan. (David Common/CBC)

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Comments (13)

Paul Klimstra

Bryan: "Draft all people at 18 yrs old no deferments and I guarantee the war will end quick,when the sons and daughters of the wealthy and the politicians have to go. Think about it."

I have. Bush Jr. "served" in the Air National Guard (when he could be found on base) during Vietnam. Never made it out of the Texas.

Those with wealth and privilege will always find a way to get around their civic duties.

Posted September 26, 2007 11:48 AM

Ron

Progress, slow and steady. Standing up to the bullies, thugs, and goons. Protecting those trying to re-build their lives after years of war and dictatorship.

I don't know about anyone else, but it makes me proud of Canada and our Troops.

Carry on with the good work.

Posted September 24, 2007 09:40 PM

Bryan

calgary

I think all the people that support the war do so with other people's sons and daughters. If you all feel that strong about the war why don't you join up.Support the troops stickers on a car is very safe and it is a business. Draft all people at 18 yrs old no deferments and I guarantee the war will end quick,when the sons and daughters of the wealthy and the politicians have to go.Think about it.

Posted September 21, 2007 06:59 PM

mark verrall

I too was in KAF in 2002 then back in 2006/07
It is quite a bit better. To respond to Ken from Calgary, the doctors / surgeons come to KAF for assistance and to upgrade there skills. As a medic who worked at the multi national medical unit (MMU) in KAF, we are too busy to go into the city to help them. We have taken some of there more difficult cases if we have the room, and we have let them use our x-ray/ct scaner.

Things are improving but like all things evaluation is slow but does go forward.
Mark

Posted September 20, 2007 08:48 PM

Chris Cargill

Toronto

It is time that these stories are brought to the forefront of the Afghanistan debate. I grew up in the left wing of Canadian politics and i strongly disagree with all of the opposition to this war. It is not Iraq! I say shame on the Bush administration for failing to stick with Afghanistan as their primary mission. The world did the right thing going to Afghanistan after 911. The focus should have remained there. By now we could have seen an Afghanistan in the middle to late stages of being rebuilt instead of the short circuited scenario of today.

Because of the Bush failures in Afghanistan we, as Canadians, have an even greater obligation to help these people. I have become totally disillusioned with the Canadian left for it's politically motivated opposition to our involvement in this conflict. We need to step it up in Afghanistan, not back away. We should be sending professionals from all fields to help rebuild. And our military will need to be there to insure, to the best of their ability, security for Allied rebuilding efforts and for the people accepting our help. The bully extremist Taliban threat must be neutralized.

I won't vote for the Tories next time but i'm going to make my voice heard in the centre and in the centre left. Mine is not the only one. There are many people in the centre and on the left with this view. We as Canadians have an obligation to humanity. We must answer this call and we must not fail.

Posted September 20, 2007 01:18 PM

William

Amen. If there were more people who actually thought about what they say, in this case Colin, we might make some headway in regard to problems. The press is terribly biased (liberal) and we need and deserve fair reporting of news.

Posted September 19, 2007 09:48 AM

Frank Filbert

My wife who is employed by Corrections Canada is currently posted on a PRT Base in Kandahar overseeing the Correctional Services. I am aware of many great things that our soldiers, police and yes, corrections have done to date. Unfortunately they cannot discuss a lot of those things to protect those Afghans involved. I wish I could tell the media and the negative people about those that have been helped by us being there but I can not. I do understand that the media must tell Canadians about losses(one is always too many). Only those over there know how much we are needed, and they know they are doing great things those who can not protect themselves and are proud of their accomplishments. I've heard some people say we are Peace Keepers, well that only works if both parties wish that between two factions. In this case you have fantanics that are no better than thugs forcing their will on others at the point of a gun or death, unless someone can stand up to them. WE ARE the ones standing up and making a difference over there. Ask any Canadian hero (You serve there you are a hero) that has already served there and they'll tell you "WE MUST STAND FAST". In the future Canada will once again stand proud in the world and will always have the love from Afghans for giving them their country and safety back. God Bless Our Men & Women for answering the call.

Posted September 18, 2007 06:41 PM

Brian

Kitchener

I just read Colin's comment, and I would like to say THANK YOU! Someone has finally said what needed to be said. The media will always focus on the blood and gore because that is what sells. Canada has had a lot of little success stories, all those little successes will some day add up to a big success.
David, Keep up the good work We need to hear the stories of the day to day success!
Support the troops, by letting them finish the job!

Posted September 18, 2007 05:37 PM

Louise

The description of the KAF that David gives brings back memories, both pleasant and otherwise, smells included. I returned not long ago from a tour in Afghanistan. When I first arrived there I was surprised at the size of the camp. That aside, Canadians, and other nations, are in small ways trying to make a difference in that part of the world. Improvements will not take place overnight. It's going to be a long road to rebuilding.

Reporting on the small improvements and how difficult those improvements are to accomplish will go a long way in helping people in Canada understand what is needed for the country to be able to take its place in the world.

Posted September 17, 2007 07:25 AM

J. McIntyre

Victoria

Thank you David Common for the candid look at travel inside Kandahar City.

Posted September 16, 2007 11:18 PM

canadian solider

kandahar

Don't forget about the sushi shop on the boardwalk.

Posted September 14, 2007 10:15 PM

Ken

Calgary

How many doctors, nurses and other medical staff work at the Mirwais Hospital? Are there any women in the hospital - as staff or patients? Do any of the coalition forces visit the hospital or provide support? Are the medical staff targeted by the Taliban? What is the level of training and where were the medical staff trained?

Posted September 14, 2007 05:07 PM

Colin

Toronto

As much as I am reading David's posts, I am also reading the comments from other readers. It is striking how jaded, and negative they are. It seems many of us have decided that the mission is not worthwhile.

As a starting point, I believe it is possible to positively impact Afghanistan through security operations, development work, education and other supports. This is aside from the question of how effective we are at actually doing it. If you don't believe this, Okay, but that means that we really can't help anyone out there, be it darfur, haiti, bosnia, etc. If you believe we can make a difference let's make the conversation about how. Or, if you think the price is too high, let the conversation be about that.

But let's not doubt that we can have a positive impact. The impression that we are fighting an insurmountable insurgency is a trick of the media, who focus their attention on the hot spot, the south. In that region, there is 40% support for the Taliban. We have not yet been able to deliver anything positive to those provinces. Not peace, not development. Is that a reason to get out and leave the part of the country we are succeeding in? Or does it mean we need to hold ground and provide security for the people who will make a difference?

I see Canada's military as peacemakers not peacekeepers. We fight to protect others, to prevent oppression, to bring peace and order. As far as I can tell, this is what we are doing in Afghanistan.

Posted September 14, 2007 04:46 PM

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