Supermodel Stacey McKenzie (right) wearing a creation by designer Evan Bidell and Singer Jully Black (left) showing a creation by the designer Izzy Camilleri ham it up for the cameras at the end of the Dare to Wear Show which closed Toronto Fashion Week 2009. (Chris Young/Canadian Press)

The use of fur in fashion has long been a source of contentious debate, but recent shows in fashion capitals including New York and Milan saw fur emerging among the major trends featured on fall/winter runways.

Now, with the kickoff Sunday of the latest edition of Toronto Fashion Week, fur will be front and centre once again at the opening night show of IZMA, the collaborative fur line from designer Izzy Camilleri and fashion journalist Adrian Mainella.

Mainella said Camilleri came to him two years ago while he was still hosting CBC's Fashion File and the two discussed the future of Canadian designers in ready-to-wear.

Mainella said they starting talking about how one of the few real luxury products coming out of Canada was fur, and starting specifically discussing sustainable fur.

'For those who protest or speak to animal rights, I mean that's the beauty of this country — you should be able to voice your opinion.'—Adrian Mainella

While Camilleri, an established design talent, is well known for her use of leather as a signature fabric, one of her most famous creations is a fox coat she designed for Meryl Streep's character Miranda Priestly, in The Devil Wears Prada.

Mainella said he sees fur as being green, in part because of its longevity compared to other materials.

"People don't typically discard fur products as readily as they do cloth products, windbreakers, coats, synthetic sweaters. They usually keep them and pass them down."

Mainella said their aim with their collection was to look at ways to make fur more versatile and to incorporate it in fashion in a way which women can use to dress it up or down.

To that end, the pair crafted pieces that have dual purposes: capelets that turn into skirts, or stoles that turn into purses, he said.

Handmade in Canada

Mainella said all of the pieces are handmade in Canada, and they are working in collaboration with the North American Fur Association. Of the 46 pieces in the collection, about 36 will be featured on the runway, he said.

While fur may be seeing a renaissance on the runway, it remains a source of contention particularly among those in the animal rights movement who are against its use in fashion.

Mainella said he believes the key is for everyone to be informed. He said the livelihood of trappers making a living from the fur industry is no different than the farming or livestock industry being supported through the purchase of food or leather goods.

"I'm not here to be the spokesperson for fur. I'm here to design a collection that I hope people really love and would like to wear," he said.

"For those who protest or speak to animal rights, I mean that's the beauty of this country — you should be able to voice your opinion," he added.

"But at the same time, those who care to participate in purchasing things like fur and buying meat in their groceries or poultry or those who enjoy leather products, they should be able to freely do the same."

Fashion Week continues until Thursday.