Any restaurant that can survive 12 years in this fickle town has done well.

That's the case for Sugo, an Italian restaurant in Inglewood that has built a loyal following over the years. 

Click the audio player below to hear John Gilchrist's full review.

Sugo immediately became a hot place when it first opened and could hold roughly 40 people, but has expanded significantly since then.

"I think the reason for its success is that it continues to evolve and grow, and it does that quite successfully," said Gilchrist.

Despite being Italian, Sugo manages to avoid the stereotypical checkered tablecloth look and instead veers towards simple, contemporary decor.

When the pizza craze hit Calgary several years ago, the owners opened Without Papers in the space above Sugo and it became a hit with its food and lower price tags. 

Sugo

John Gilchrist gives Sugo 8.5 out of 10. (CBC)

Sugo got a bit quieter for a while, but after refocusing, the partners and chef have revived the menu, which changes daily with seasonal availability.

Earlier this week, the menu included a traditional clam linguine and caprese salad, which featured mozzarella from Calgary's own White Gold dairy. 

There's also a dish of duck breast in a quince juice for those seeking something less traditionally Italian.

Sugo isn't the kind of place people go for a quick bite — it demands an entire evening and while not every new dish will work every time, the payoff when the chefs get it right is wonderful.

Sugo is located at 1214 Ninth Avenue S.E.