Cycle adventurer Daniel Croll navigates the Koy Tezek pass in Tajikistan, at an altitude of 4,277 metres. (Daniel Croll)

I had been traveling four consecutive 10-hour days in a jeep along a dirt track through western Tibet to reach the pilgrimage site of Mt. Kailash. When I arrived in the ramshackle village of Darchen, the starting point for pilgrimages around the holy mountain, it was already dark — and it was pouring rain.

This is one of the most remote places on earth, high up in the Himalayas.

For four days, I had passed only a few Tibetan villages, some nomads and several herds of yak. So I was surprised, but also intensely curious, when I saw a lone figure pull up in front of my guesthouse on a mountain bike.

It wasn't long before we bumped into each other, considering he was the only other foreigner in town. Turns out Daniel Croll had come all the way from Switzerland — literally. He had been cycling through Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia for nine months and was on his way to Nepal. That pretty much put my grumbling about four uncomfortable days in a jeep to rest.

Seeing the world over a set of handlebars

Be prepared before you leave, advises Daniel Croll, pictured here cycling through Iran. Maps and trip reports researched in advance will help you judge the length of stretches where you'll be without local sources of food or water. (Daniel Croll)

Daniel has done four major cycling trips: From Switzerland to Gibraltar, around Iceland, from Bolivia to Chile and, most recently, from Switzerland to Nepal. This last trip took him through Eastern Europe (with a detour in Greece), across Turkey, Georgia and Azerbaijan, to Iran, across the deserts of Turkmenistan and the mountain ranges of the Pamir in Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan. He then entered western China and made his way up into the Himalayas, through Tibet to Nepal. (For information on his routes and travelogues, check out his website).

This kind of cycling adventure is not as expensive as you might think. Excluding airfare, Daniel's costs were relatively modest: For three weeks in Iceland, he spent 250 euros (about $375), and for 11 weeks in Bolivia and Chile, he spent 700 euros (about $1,000).

And you don't have to be an expert cyclist — most people are surprised to find out Daniel wasn't in shape and didn't do extensive training before embarking on his last nine-and-a-half-month journey.

Advice from a cycle-tour veteran

Here are some of Daniel's tips for cycling solo, whether it's across Canada or across the world.

Consider the terrain: If you're new to cycling tours, it's a good idea to start your trip on relatively easy terrain. You can start slow and take your time adapting to the stress of cycling long distances, and this will also give you time to get used to other factors such as traveling in bad weather. This way, over the first few weeks of the journey, you'll get in shape for the harder parts of your trip.

When cycling through sparsely populated areas where ready sources of water aren't guaranteed, Daniel Croll carries 1.5 to two litres on the frame of his bike, along with a 10-litre water bag and several plastic bottles. He also likes to pack lots of lightweight rice, instant noodles and biscuits for times when he can't find food locally.

But if your tour starts in places such as Lhasa, La Paz or the Pamir, the going could be tough as soon as you start out because of the challenging nature of the terrain, so you should get some training in beforehand (say, a couple of months of regular cycling to build up your muscles and get used to hours in the saddle).

Limit valuables: Cycling solo always carries more risk than going in a group, particularly in remote areas. Daniel got attacked — by people with a machete — in the middle of the night while wild camping in Iran.

"I got away with some lies, the most essential Farsi words and lots of luck," he says. "They believed me that I didn't have $1,500 in cash hidden away. But it was a close call."

Corruption: Most hassles and threats he encountered came from officials — the army, police and border guards — including naive attempts to solicit bribes and rifles pointed at him by suspicious officials.

"But that was almost exclusively in Tajikistan at a time when cycling wasn't known there," he says.

The basic principle is to never, ever give a bribe. It may not be a lot of money to you, but it sets an expectation among local people that makes life hellish for the cyclists who will follow you later.

"I never paid any bribes, except for $20 that police officers in Georgia confiscated after searching me," he says. "That was my first encounter with crooked officials, and I learned the lesson the rest of the trip."

Don't expect to find good tires in China

Accommodation: In potentially risky areas, figure out where you want to sleep beforehand. If it's in a town, arrive early and find a suitable hotel where you can leave your bike safely.

A campsite with a view of the Chong Alau range, on the Tajikistan border. (Daniel Croll)

If you're wild camping (rather than staying in an official campsite), avoid heavily populated areas. Find a spot where nobody can see you at night, such as behind a sand dune or in a forest. If people ask where you're heading, dodge the question if you don't trust their intentions. But, Daniel points out, in many parts of the world, it's safe to camp anywhere.

Language: Daniel recommends learning some words in the local language — at least enough to answer basic questions, haggle over prices and make yourself understood in an emergency. Carry a small phrasebook with you. If you get hassled, remain polite and answer questions with "credible nonsense" if the queries get too personal.

The bike: Cycling trips require preparation, and the quality of the bike is a critical factor.

There are several reputable brands that are designed for long-distance travel, such as MTB Cycletech and Cannondale, Daniel says. But they can be expensive, so many cyclists choose to start off with a standard mountain bike and then add necessary components, such as front and rear carriers, comfy handlebars and good tires.

Daniel Croll's bike beside a camel-warning sign in Iran. He advises knowing the basics of bike repair and investing in top quality tires, because bike shops are few and far between in many areas. (Daniel Croll)

Look for a solid frame, small gears and good brakes (hydraulic ones are best, but learn how to maintain them on the road). High-quality tires are also a must — standard tires will wear down quickly when a bike is heavily loaded. Daniel's preference is Schwalbe Marathon XR tires — it took him 14,000 kilometres to get through the first set. And take a spare set of tires (one that's foldable) with you.

"Don't expect to find good tires in a Chinese bicycle shop," Daniel says. He adds that on a long trip, "You might want to have things sent to you every couple of months in case you need something."

You should also get to know your bike before you leave on the trip. Learn how to take it apart and put it back together again — that way, you'll know whether you have the right tools. Get multipurpose, lightweight tools where possible. If you are not mechanically inclined, take a course or ask a friend to show you.

"Don't expect to find a knowledgeable bike shop somewhere outside the Western world," he says. "Welding back together a three-gear Chinese bike is a whole different story than repairing the fine-tuned parts of your expensive mountain bike."

Trust your instincts

A military checkpoint on the way to the Afghan border gorge. (Daniel Croll)

Baggage: Daniel carries his gear in two bags fixed to the front carrier of his bike and two more on the back. He also has an additional pack on the rear carrier that doubles as a simple backpack, along with a small bag on the handlebars, so that if he has to leave his bike outside in front of a shop he can take his camera and most of his valuables with him.

The rule of thumb: Take only the absolute necessities. If in doubt, pack everything on your bike before you leave on your trip, find a big hill and test it out.

Necessities: Be prepared before you leave. Maps and trip reports researched in advance will help you judge the length of stretches where you'll be without local sources of food or water.

Water equals weight, but it's a necessity, so you need to gauge your needs properly. Except for Sahara crossings or remote tracks, you'll rarely need more than 20 litres of fresh water with you. Daniel recommends carrying 1.5 to two litres on the frame of the bike, along with a 10-litre water bag and several plastic bottles if you need more.

The same applies to food. He likes to pack lots of lightweight rice, instant noodles and biscuits for times when he can't find food locally.

Go with the flow: Daniel's final piece of advice is that you can't plan for everything, nor should you try. Cycling trips are about fun and about seeing and experiencing new things.

"In the end, it all comes down to your instincts," he says of dealing with the things that come your way during a journey. "Be prepared, but don't spoil your trip and your encounters with anxiety and mistrust."

The author is a freelance writer based in Toronto. She has been travelling the globe for years, often adventuring off the beaten path alone.

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