The Scenic Sapphire cruises German rivers. (Courtesy Scenic Tours)
In Depth
Travel
Europe up a lazy river in style
Last Updated March 25, 2008
By Wallace Immen
Planning to vacation in Europe this year? Going by ship is the affordable way to go. A ship is a floating hotel and restaurant and you'll be paying fares that were set a year or more ago in U.S. or Canadian dollars that seem comparative bargains compared with what you'll pay now in inflated euros for land-based hotels.
Fine, but what if you want to explore must-see inland capitals such as Budapest, Paris, Prague and Vienna, and entire countries that you can't reach on a big cruise ship in the Mediterranean, Baltic or Black Sea?
The Scenic Sapphire cruises German rivers. (Courtesy Scenic Tours)
Until now, you had to compromise. River ships tended to be poor cousins to the armada of grand and luxurious new ocean-going ships. To navigate tight channels and get under ancient bridges, a river vessel had to be low and slender, which generally meant small boats and barges with bare-bones service.
That meant river cruising featured snug accommodations and tiny windows that forced passengers to head to a shadeless upper deck, for a view that might include portly European women sunbathing topless around the equivalent of a wading pool. And at mealtimes, the snail-paced line formed on deck for a limited buffet table, while announcements in four languages blared continually out of loudspeakers.
But there is a sea of change coming. New fleets of river ships are coming into service in Europe, as well as Egypt this year that are geared to the North American market. Two new river lines launching this year are being run by former executives of ocean cruise lines and their ships have cabins that are among the biggest afloat, many with private balconies. Not to be outdone, three other existing fleets are launching new vessels of their own, all with dining options designed to rival restaurants ashore.
That's the reason a poll of Canadian travellers by travel agency chain Cruise Holidays found river cruising in Europe rivals South America and Asia as the hottest new cruise itineraries of the year.
Here's a look at what's new:
Scenic Tours
A long-established travel company based in Australia, and with offices in Vancouver, invades the Rhine and Danube this year with the first two of a planned fleet of four river cruisers it calls "spaceships." Each will have two decks of balcony suites about 25 per cent larger than the average European river cruise cabins. Premium suites are even larger and feature private butler service.
In keeping with the itineraries that span Europe from Holland to Hungary, the Scenic Tours ships will have an international flavour. Their hotel staffs are Swiss; the sailing crews are former members of the Dutch navy and the chefs French and Austrian.
Though the ships are as much as twice as long as most existing European river ships, they will be nimble enough to dock in the centres of towns, so passengers can take an exclusive series of shore excursions in museums and private residences that are included in the fares, that start at about $3,200 a person for two-week journeys, with drinks, shore excursions and gratuities included. Information is at www.scenictours.com.
Jewel River Cruise Line
This line is the creation of Albert Peter, formerly chief executive officer at Silversea Cruises, along with a team of executives formerly with upscale Renaissance Cruises and Costa Cruises. Days spent on French rivers will feature private events in the Louvre, cooking classes and wine tastings.
The Florida-based company will eventually have six ships, with the first in service this year a "boutique luxury" ship called Jewel Imperial Blue. It was originally built in Germany as a private residence but after a complete overhaul, it features 45 suites as well as two owners' residences of nearly 500 square feet each. Two more ships are being built to enter service in 2009 and 2010. Multiple dining options are included aboard, along with what the company is calling "lifestyle experiences" that give passengers exclusive events daily along the route between Paris and Rouen in France. Seven-day cruises start at about $5,100 a person.
The company's other ships will be in a less-pricey brand called Princess River Journeys, which is based in central Europe and markets a variety of itineraries through tour companies in Canada. Information is at www.jewelrivercruises.com.
Uniworld Grand River Cruises
The company has a long history of cruising in Europe, Russia, China and Egypt and has made wine at dinners complimentary this year. All their ships in Europe have been extensively refurbished for the season and menus have been upgraded to a luxury restaurant level. New this year is the Duro Queen, which does seven-night itineraries on rivers in Spain and Portugal from Lisbon, with seven-night trips priced from about $1,800 a person and 14-night European packages from about $2,900. Information is at www.uniworld.com.
Amadeus Waterways
This four-year-old company is adding two new ships to its fleet this year designed for the English-speaking market: The MS Amacello and the MS. Amadante. While they don't feature balconies, they have large picture windows and following the all-inclusive trend, are including complimentary wine and beer with meals. Bicycles on board let passengers explore by day and come back to the ship at night. New itineraries include a 12-day cruise from Amsterdam to Paris priced from $2,549 a person. Information is at www.amadeuswaterways.com.
Avalon Waterways
This line, part of the well-known Globus family of travel companies, is adding a third ship to its fleet, the Avalon Scenery, which has two decks of suites with floor to ceiling windows and furnishings and a dining room based on features of a luxury European hotel. Twelve-day Rhine, Danube or Moselle River cruises start at about $2,800. The company also has ships in China, Egypt and the Galapagos Islands. Information is at www.avalonwaterways.com.
Peter Deilmann
Another line to keep in mind is the big German company that has eight relatively new ships that sail the Danube, Rhine and Mosel rivers. Its latest, the MV Heidelberg carries 110 passengers in 54 suites that feature full-length French doors on cruises of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Despite the strong rise in the euro, the company is holding its price increases this year to three per cent. Seven-night cruises start from about $1,550. Information is at www.deilmann-cruises.com.
And it's not only Europe where river cruising is being reincarnated. Nile cruising once meant sweltering in snug accommodations on ships without air conditioners more reminiscent of Death on the Nile than life of the party. Now the Nile means going in style without the sweat.
Mövenpick
The famous Swiss-based hotel chain has just launched what it claims are the most luxurious river ships afloat. The fully air-conditioned Mövenpick Royal Lily and sister ship Mövenpick Royal Lotus, have 56 suites and four royal suites designed to the standards of the company's luxury hotels and staffed by Swiss-trained personnel. On its route on the classic stretch of the Nile Luxor and Aswan, the ship stops regularly for complimentary tours of the temples and tombs of ancient Egypt. Three- or four-night voyages, depending on whether you are travelling up or down the river are priced from about $480 a person. Information is at the Mövenpick website.
Elegant Voyage
This Cairo-based cruise company is about to launch a five-star Nile ship, the Moondance, to join another new five-star ship, the Kon-Tiki, cruising between Aswan and Luxor. While these ships don't have balconies, all suites feature picture windows and decor designed in Italy, with wood panelling and bathrooms with full tubs. And there is a deck of lounges and an a la carte restaurant rather than a buffet. Three-night packages are currently being promoted from as low as $300 a person.
The company does not have a representative in Canada, but online bookings for cruises, air and hotel can be made through the company's agency in Cairo. For information see: www.elegantvoyage.com.
And a tip: Because of their limited capacity, river cruises book up fast, so plan early. The peak river cruising season in Europe is from April through the end of October with prices lowest in April and November. Nile cruises operate throughout the year, with Easter and mid-summer being the highest season.
Wallace Immen is a Toronto-based travel writer who has logged more than 75 cruises.
The Scenic Sapphire cruises German rivers. (Courtesy Scenic Tours)
The Scenic Sapphire cruises German rivers. (Courtesy Scenic Tours)