New York Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2008
I began Fashion Week in NYC a few days late this season to lighten what promises to be a long haul over the next month. Yesterday started with yet another launch for the Halston label. Backstage was calm and collected; models’ hair was back in a braided bun with wisps adorning their faces. When Harvey Weinstein and Tamara Mellon team up to revive a brand you know you are in for a show...
In attendance was the great Liza Minnelli looking better than ever in a vintage Halston pant and sweater ensemble. Mellon’s current beau, Christian Slater, was on hand to lend his support, and when I began to interview Harvey he said "I don't do interviews without Christian speaking right next to me". I was thinking that perhaps Christian is up for the coveted role of playing Halston in the biopic we have all been anticipating.
The clothes were mainly muted colours with long tunic gowns that had effortless trains, rusty orange satin skirt suits coupled with a white turtleneck, and high waisted fitted pants with a bell flare at the bottom. The gowns were truly the highlight of the collection with the signature Halston ease to the construction and hints of Grecian goddess meets upper east side aristocrat. All in all the collection seemed like something Halston would have designed had he been guiding this collection with his own hand. Unfortunately as a whole the collection lacked a feeling of modernity in terms of absorbing the past few decades of style and fashion. For a first collection it played safe and stayed true to the brand. I almost felt like the collection mixed with the awesome high calf stack heal suede boots was something you would see come out of Tamara's closet--not necessarily a bad thing since she always looks great.
Max Azria was next on our list.--celebrities were being treated like Gods and roped off from press for interviews. Interview line ups back stage verged on Giorgio Armani territory in terms of the security, and the show was venturing to Marc Jacobs levels of starting late. We left to make it on time for Proenza Schouler.
Proenza Schouler was everything you would expect it to be. Backstage was calm in spite of being massive in its production. Jack and Lazaro genuinely had an excited way about them as they showed me their collection like a child shares a new-found toy. Celebrities walked freely back stage to greet the boys and wish them well, and the clothes were magnificent, even as they hung on the racks. Aside from a few suits from the Valentino corporation commenting on the clothes in Italian and comparing the fabrications to Valentino, the scene was first class all the way.
The clothes that came down the runway were jewel tone colours in geometric shapes that threw the body conscious silhouette out the window for fall 2008. Exposed seams on coats layered with attached vests and sequined trims emphasized the emerging signature of combining different kinds of fabrics into one sublime garment. Monkey fur trims on blazers with bell sleeves and sequined paper bag pants really elevate these boys past American Apparel and right into the European arena of high fashion. Best of all, there is an ease to these looks when broken down piece by piece that would suit most women's wardrobes. The shoes were spot on; mustard suede, pastel and jewel-toned stack heal platforms with stitching along the arch of the foot, made for the perfect shoe for fall 08.
