Aime Luxury Je T'Aime

To a soundtrack of whimsical French pop, Aime Luxury designer Monica Mei presented her "seasonless" 2009 collection very aptly named, "Paris Je T'Aime".  An unconventional hybrid of classically Parisian themes (bib collars, ruffles, chiffon, a very 'Chanel' colour palette) mixed in with futuristic elements (metallics, piping, volume in the right places) made for a refreshing combination at Toronto Fashion week.









NADA Get's With the Times

Toronto native Nada Shepherd has been designing clothes for the past 9 years and wanted to take a very different approach this season. "The line is usually pretty feminine but this season we went a little bit harsher with the styling", -and harsher it was.  As our interview progressed in a quiet corner of the backstage dressing room, I had a glimpse of her models out of the corner of my eye -hair pulled back tight, pale-faced, blocked out brows, black lips, chains, leather and feathers and I was immediately reminded of Rick Owens' creatures of the night.  Not something your regular 30-45 year old woman (as she said her brand caters to) would wear, but would be more suited for the younger, fashion forward set.  It was obvious this collection was a huge departure from her previous one where she showed flow-y caftan dresses in bright bold colours.  This season, her inspiration was the idea of a dark futuristic world. "It's not a feel-good collection.  It's called 'Utopia' but it's a dark utopia, it's more of a 'dis-topia'.  I asked people to kind of put themselves into the future where science and technology has given us everything we think we've wanted as humans but there's sort of a consequence for that".  The dark theme of this collection only prompted the inevitable question of whether the recession had anything to do with her final product.  "[The recession] is global.  This is a big deal. With that said, there's still an optimism there.  Yeah it's dark, but there's that light at the end of the tunnel".  Not limited to this collection, designers are coming to a very ironic conclusion, "I realized people are not going to buy the basic wool pant from me.  Who are you kidding?  They're going to buy it from the Gap, they're going to buy it at H&M, they're going to buy it from companies that could do it for a lot less, so I decided to take the other tack and just go the other way and do pieces that aren't 'easy', in the sense that they're everyday staples.  They're special pieces, they're unique pieces".  And the outcome?  Innovative fabrics (the glossy leggings in several of her looks are not PVC but are in fact, a stretch leather), an incredible beauty look (my favourite so far this week), and something many Canadian designers lack in their collections -risk.

 













Photos courtesy Jess Baumung

Ed Hardy

I'm not exactly a fan of this brands garish aesthetic, and one might even question its place at a "fashion" event, but I must say that Ed Hardy's Swim and Snow collection was definitely entertaining and was a great way to conclude the evening!  Rail thin beauties stomped down the runway in bikinis and cut-out swim suits bearing that distinctive graphic that actually didn't seem so gaudy in this context.  And if you're wondering how a show with such contrasting themes (winter/summer) gets styled, it was exactly how you would imagine -a bikini-clad model wearing ski goggles and a brawny male model in a speedy holding a snow board were a few of the runway looks.











Get the beauty look:     Ed Hardy Swim and Snow

L'Oreal Paris' official hair artist and colourist Eric Del Monaco and the official makeup artist and artistic director for LG Fashion Week Beauty, Eddie Malterre, shows us how to get the Ed Hardy Swim and Snow runway beauty looks.

Hair:



 "This look is very nice, it's very fresh.  We're just taking a straightening iron, we're just going to make it very straight and very clean but instead of just taking the iron and going straight down, we're going to take it and iron it in all different angles so when she walks down the runway it'll have a veiled effect, it's not just going to hang there, it's going to flow.  It's so easy to do!"

STEP 1: Start with clean, dry hair.  Apply a small amount of L'Oreal Special FX Studio Architect Wax to the hair which will protect the hair from the heat of the straightening iron.





STEP 2: Use a hair clip to separate your hair into quarters.  Take approximately 2 inch wide strands of hair and starting from the root, flat iron the hair pulling each strand in different directions rather than just straight down.







STEP 3:  When completed, use a small amount of L'Oreal Studio Mineral FX Gel Cream and emulsify it between your hands.  Pat the product into the ends of your hair.  For longer wear, apply a bit of hairspray instead.





END RESULT:





Eric's hair tip for transitioning from winter into spring:  "If your using any kind of a heated tool you should get some kind of a protector cream, spray, anything to protect against the heat of the blow dryer.  You can use a bit of hairspray or the architect wax."  

Makeup:



"We wanted it to look very feminine, very glamour with lots of emphasis on the eyes but with a beautiful frosty glow on the face and the cheekbones are fresh cheekbones and lips look like there is a pout."



Skin: Use true match foundation and powder all over face.  For blush, apply a light peach colour to the apples of your cheeks.  Use L'Oreal's pearl eye shadow as a highlight under your eyes and above your cheekbones for a frosty look.



Eyes: Using L'Oreal HIP Metallic eye shadow black and silver duo, apply the darker shade on the outer eye lid and then apply the silver on the inner half of the lid, blending the two shades together in the center.  Apply black liquid eyeliner on the top eye lid and black mascara on the top and bottom eye lashes.  Apply the same eye shadows on the bottom eyelid for a smoky effect.  



Lips: Use L'Oreal Colour Rich lipstick in shade 339 or any pale pink lipstick. Apply a coat of clear lip gloss on top.
 


For an everyday look, Eddie suggests toning down the eyes by using the eye shadows as an eye liner instead of applying to the entire eye lid.  

End Result:





Eddie's makeup tip for transitioning from winter into spring:
"Have two foundations, one a bit darker and one a bit lighter.  Our skin always changes so it's good to play with two foundations.  Sometimes you buy a foundation and think 'oh, it's too light', but keep it and buy one a little bit darker and you can blend it together."
    
Seen and Heard:

Adrian interviewing Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais.  The duo, along with Style.com's Nicole Phelps were in town to promote their new book "Ruffian: Inside Out"





The woman behind the brilliant style.com show reviews, Nicole Phelps



Nicole's amazing gold snakeskin shoes



Adrian introducing the designers and their models wearing pieces from Ruffian's Fall 09 collection



The amazing beauty look from NADA's runway show



Model Amanda Laine spotted backstage having some difficulty trying to remove the said beauty look



A fashion week attendee sporting a unique self-made head piece



Adrian interviewing designer Carlton Brown before his show



I spotted Young & the Restless' Dr. Olivia Winters (actress Tonya Lee Williams) in the crowd



L'Oreal's infamous Elnett hairspray spotted backstage.  L'Oreal's official hair artist Eric Del Monaco informed me that this will finally be available in Canada this fall.  

Waiting For Gaudet



Norm and Gio Gaudet's show opened the tent at Nathan Phillip's Square on Day Three of LG Fashion Week with Audio Bully's technicolour remix of Nancy Sinatra's Shot Me Down.  A wardrobe of outerwear focused on bringing colour and life back to winter. Perfect for the 44th parallel where winter lasts for the better part of the year.
 

Textile: The key element in this collection, Gaudet used hand pulled felted wool featuring: embroidery, abstract and floral silk appliqués, and a subtle tulle overlay.  Clean and well executed without being fussy (considering all the details).



Silhouette: A body-con collection in all the right ways. The cut is made for everywoman, but the colour is not for everday. The shape was forgiving and sweet - nipped waists with circle skirts and ¾ length A-line cuts were predominant.



Colours: canary yellows, powder blues, rust and sepia tones.  The inspiration came from a blanket of wildflowers seen on a visit to Gio's native Georgia.

Style notes: Belts for all!  Dropped hem coats (reminiscent of the skirts in Marni's SS 2008 collection), chain and cluster necklaces from H&M (the chains were a bit Givenchy lite?), and finally liquid leggings and skinny pants that weren't quite skinny enough.  Overall, a collection of beautifully finished coats - though the details in the styling left something to be desired.

Comrags: Our lovely Mess

Coming out of their 25th year - this collection was made for the Comrags girl - one that is never quite right, but is never quite wrong and knows what she wants.





Textile: The first half of the collection was all about tweeds and tartans. Worn layered together, or over jersey and lace - it certain was a lovely mess.  After all the great separates came the dresses - in beautifully crumpled nylon taffeta.



Silhouette: Something for everyone.  The silhouettes were the usual suspects: blouses, cardigans, oversized oxfords, shirtdresses, and sumptuous wide leg trousers that added more length to the already lean Amazons strutting down the runway.  The dresses were mainly shifty, though they did play with some volume and nipping of the midsection.



Colour: The separates at the beginning of the show were individually muted (rust, brown, grey and black), but the colours and textures layered together to create a more interesting look. It was very refreshing to see the jewel toned dresses in the second act of the show (sapphire blue, raspberry, poison ivy green).

Style notes: A great choice in the John Fluevog shoes, ankle socks and undone hair.  Perfectly in line with the natural beauty of Comrags, for the slightly awkward/cool girl who wears her curly hair au naturel.

Andy Thê-Anh: Did you say recession?

Staying true to himself, Andy produced another sleek and sophisticated collection of wearable dresses and separates.





Textile: yards of silk, velvet, fur, and pounds of Swarovski crystals were used to create the FW 2009 collection, who said we were in a recession?

Silhouette: It was all about the legs - mini skirts, fitted maxi dresses, oversized blazers worn alone, all paired with Swarovski bejewelled leggings (Oh hey there, McQueen SS09)



The colour palette began in the gold/bronze and brown family.  Chartreuse and more vibrant hits of green unleashed the other colours in the box - with canary yellow, rich reds, and fuschia all mixing with gold and black anchors.

Style notes: obi belts served to highlight the waist and provide a sharpness to contrast all the ruffles, and intricate folding on the dresses.  

Fun, fabulousness, and heart health were the themes at the 2009 Heart Truth fashion show last night. The usual models sat this one out and instead, some of the nations most celebrated women strutted their stuff down the runway. Marilyn Denis, Sass Jordan, Amy Sky and Natalie Brown were some of the celeb models that took part. The red dress looks were contributed by some of the country's top designers including Pink Tartan, Greta Constantine, Joeffer Caoc, Evan Biddell, Pat McDonagh, Carlie Wonge and David Dixon. And we're happy to report that there were no spills this season!

Adrian interviewing Holt Renfrew's Barbara Atkins

Elmer Olsen with Justine Chambers

Model Stacy McKenzie

Models Chantilly Scott, Elise Helene Gatschene, Justine Chambers

backstage hair and makeup

Adrian interviewing Linda Lundstrom pre-show

Andy The Anh and friend sitting behind us at the Heart Truth fashion show

Guest of honour, Laureen Harper (wife of Canadian Prime Minister Stephen Harper) sitting front row at the Heart Truth fashion show (blonde hair).

Posted by HAZEL

Minutes before showing her Fall 2009 collection, I spoke with Toronto fashion veteran Ula Zukowska about her new collection...

Tell us a little bit about you and your line.

Me?  I'm almost like a veteran in fashion week.  This is probably my 10th season, or actually my 10th year at fashion week and my line has always had an architecture influence from the beginning.  I'm just changing the moods on the runway and I'm just adding a little bit of trend for the line but basically all you see on the runway is for strong independent woman.

Who is the Ula girl?  Who is the Ula customer?

She's an independent woman who doesn't care what someone else would say about her.  She looks how she wants to.

What are we expecting to see on the runway today?

Big hair, great makeup, big shoulders, long legs and strange cuts, but everything for a very high esteem model, girl, woman and mother

What were your inspirations for this collection?

The inspiration for me is always just a good day, nice architecture, nice interior design magazines but no designers, no trends.  I'm just searching all the colours of my imagination, putting together fabric, shape, shape of the girl, that's it.

So after 10 years, what has changed in your design aesthetic?

It's always updating by the day.  It always has elements of the contemporary fashion and what we need everyday.  When the world is going crazy with wars everywhere, it has some influence in my collection as well.  If it's going 'green' and everything is 'green', I have organic fabrics and sometimes it's going back to the previous 10 years fashion, it has some elements.  All of these collections always have an architecture influence.  My background is architecture - I'm an architect, I just switched for fashion so I always keep this as a place for my creation.

And how exactly does your background in architecture influence your designs?

Well I'm creating a shape again, but not for the buildings, but for ladies.

How important is the runway show for your business?  Is it something you use to get your name out there or is it also important for buying?

It's two things.  First, it's my award for all my hard work.  Second is getting my name out there.  The buying side, not always but it's much much easier if I show on the runway, but still I have to work out so much with the buyers.

What kinds of difficulties do you experience being a Canadian designer?

All the difficulties that are possible!  To find a great fabric is the first main problem.  To find a perfect production team is the biggest problem because everything is sent offshore so that's big problems.  To produce a big collection here in Canada is very hard; everything is overseas.  And I would still like to keep everything here in Canada.  Other than that everything has been going smoothly.  As soon as I accepted the invitation for LG fashion week I started penetrating all corners of my imagination and just go through with it.

Is the current state of the economy affecting the business aspect of your brand?

I think everyone is affected by the economy but I still have quite a substantial clientele who are not afraid of this big image of our economy.  Basically they probably don't care.  They're just buying and shopping until they drop, so it's still okay.  But I do feel it, there is a big difference.

So how are you feeling minutes before your collection hits the runway?  Are you nervous?

I'm trying to be very organized.  The day before the show, I always have everything done and if something strange happens, I still have the time.  So I'm not nervous, I'm just waiting for the show.  Now is my enjoyment time.  All those three months of hard work has passed.  Today is my enjoyment day!

Lastly, what can we expect from you in the near future?

I have a show in Europe in Berlin a month after this one and after that I'm going for a big vacation!

Some looks from her collection:

Seen and heard at Holt Renfrew's Media Cocktail...

Degrassi TNG's Adamo Ruggieri, Stacey Farber and Lauren Collins



Fashion File host Adrian Mainella chatting it up with Joe Mimran



Robin Kay and Kimberly Mimran



Robin Kay saying a few words



Holt Renfew's Barbara Atkins looking fabulous with a new blonde 'do.  Barbara announced that 5 capsule collections from Canadian designers Denis Gagnon, Greta Constantine, Mikhael Kale, Philip Sparks and Jeremy Laing will be sold exclusively at Holt Renfrew. 



Here is a preview of some of the looks:

Mikhael Kale



Modelling the looks



Jeremy Laing



Denis Gagnon



Check out this lady's nails!  Wow!



Fritz Helder & the Phantoms



Tommy Ton of Jakandjil.com, fresh from Paris!



Some of the displays in the new contemporary space at Holt Renfew.

Name: Louis Bompard
From: Paris, France
Spotted at: Holt Renfrew's media cocktail
Occupation: Fashion journalist for L'Officiel
What brings you to TFW? "I was invited by Robin (Kay)"
What are you wearing? Vintage trench coat, vintage leather jacket, Topshop shirt and Topshop trousers

A parade of beautifully cut blanket coats and pea jackets at the top of the Chloé show for Winter 09 gave masculine class to a collection that was the second effort by the British designer Hannah MacGibbon. Masculine/feminine tension was gracefully played between the sporty outerwear and light as air girly dresses and frilly blouses combined with soft pants underneath.

There was a peaceful cohesion to the collection with flesh and earthtones and a surprise sequence of ivory pantsuits and dresses at the end.

As always, accessories are a strong point at Chloé: check out those sparkly sandals, high suede boots, and roomy bags!

It is good to see a young designer settle into the right groove so quickly!

Models rehearsing:

Anna Jagodzinska:



Elsa Sylvan:



Backstage:

Karli Kloss:



Liu Wen:



Taryn Davidson:



The Collection:



































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Spectacular makeup, imaginative hair (or pieces), and an over-the-top light show all add up to a John Galliano extravaganza for Winter 09. The designer already celebrated royal Orientalism at Dior, now he has gone folksy at a Ukrainian wedding, that morphed into a sensual Arabian night swirl. It all added up to a colourful, exuberant fashion romp that reaffirms Galliano's rich fantasy and creative energy. The challenge: how does this translate into real clothes?

Backstage:















The Collection:









































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Music from the Moulin Rouge was the clue that set the tone for this very CanCan collection at Vuitton. Marc Jacobs had fun playing with those sexy Parisian fashion symbols: the frilly skirts, lace up in the back boots, daring bustiers, saucy hats, and colour everywhere: from absinthe green, to pinks, reds and oranges. Underneath all the frill and frivolity were some well cut vests and coats. "Perfection, this was the perfect collection," gushed Rachel Zoe after the show.











































Marc Jacobs:



Models Outside After the Show:



Rachel Zoe and her reality show crew:



Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist:



Tommy Ton of JakandJill



Vuitton Fan:



Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Chanel was one of the few shows of the Paris season that dared to go full steam ahead with a lush presentation, brimming with energy and the inimitable Coco charm. Held in the magnificent Grand Palais, the predominantly black and white collection drew from "dandy" influences, showing off little black Chanel hats, crepe and wool jackets, suits and dresses - all of which are this house's calling cards. Splashes of absinthe green and lively pink added zest to it all. As Karl Lagerfeld remarked at the end of the show, "I think green and pink are joyful colours, no? We seem to need it today." But what set every self-respecting fashionista's heart atwitter were the accessories: the casually flung knapsacks, see-through plastic purses, and the romantic embellishment of camelia corsages around the wrist and neck.









































Freida Pinto:



Karl Lagerfeld:



Thai Princess Siriwanwaree:



Photos by ALICE
Posted by MADELEINE

André Benjamin, better known as André3000, has a reputation for being one of the most stylish rappers in hip hop, so when this rapper decides to start his own clothing line, it makes sense.  On Tuesday night, André Benjamin paid a visit to Holt Renfrew on Bloor Street in Toronto to launch his Spring/Summer 2009 Benjamin Bixby menswear collection.  Aside from being part of the acclaimed rap duo Outkast, André Benjamin the designer is now receiving praise from fashion's rank and file.  Earlier this year, he was a finalist in the CFDA's Best New Menswear Designer category. Quite a feat, considering the current success rate of the conventional celeb-turned-designer endeavours.  This is Benjamin's second collection which he said was inspired by "colonial India".  The collection focuses on clean, tailored looks mixed with a safari-like flair and a colour palette that reflects the natural desert landscape of India.

All the hallmarks of the Stella Style were present in this collection. Well cut vests, short and long, flirty slips of dresses and the casual knits. And those silver and black shag coats reaffirmed Stella's rock chic leanings. But one walked away feeling that this time the designer also gave a nod to British Mumsy nostalgia.

Beth Ditto, Sir Paul, and Selma Hayek:



Selma Hayek:



The Collection:





















Stella McCartney:



Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

The Fall Winter 09 collection of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli gave a reenactment of their SS 09 Haute Couture show in Paris. Valentino's classic rich color scheme was ever present, notably in greens, blues, and of course, reds. Set in the "Cite de l'architecture et du Patrimonie," the runway was surrounded by Romanesque statues, columns, and arches.















Photographed and Posted by Alice Crosara

The statues as a backdrop on the runway gave a clue loud and clear about the theme of the Viktor and Rolf show for Fall Winter 09. Draping, draping, and even MORE draping! Just like on Greek and Roman statues of yesteryear!  But whether you like it or not, the eternal values of those statues give a reassuring message in these troubled times.

Giving the models a run for their money:



But the models are not to be outdone:

















Viktor & Rolf:



Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

After a few disappointing collections, Alexander McQueen is back like a phoenix rising from the ashes during this time of economic crisis. He is one of the young designers who rose to fame during the last downturn in the mid-90's with his anything goes attitude and flare for shocking even the most liberal of the fashion crowd. This season his show, entitled "The Horn
of Plenty", was an homage to the crisis with a pile of junk serving as the centre-piece to the square runway. He complemented the theme with bone-shaking music from his heyday like Marilyn Manson's "the Beautiful People." The black, white, and red collection featured bold prints and big dresses. The models were adorned in elaborate headpieces and smeared with lipstick. It is exactly what one would except from an Alexander McQueen show and is perhaps a reminder that creativity and art can flourish even during hard times.





















Posted by ELIZABETH PANTALEO

Dries Van Noten presented a collection that boasted a simple elegance for his Fall Winter 2009 line. Over the knee skirts and loose trousers were paired with clean sweaters, blouses, and jackets with a bold color palette that kept the collection interesting. The classic pieces in this line would be a great addition to any winter wardrobe.

Dries Van Noten before the show:















Posted by ELIZABETH PANTALEO

Ah the glory years of Saint Laurent in the seventies! The black leather, the grey and white pinstripes, the grey flannel -all these features were very much present as Stefano Pilati revisited classic themes of the house of Saint Laurent. In this rich, well edited collection, the designer showed his skill for tailoring : his sexy, grey flannel and black tuxedo dresses worked, but his hand at recreating the classy YSL pant did not make the grade. Pilati's flair for fabric research was evident in those short cocktail dresses sparkling subtly through metallic flocking.





















Posted by MADELEINE CZIGLER
Photographs by ELIZABETH PANTALEO

A cost cutting measure no doubt as the Sonia Rykiel collection for Fall 09 was presented in the designer's spacious recently renovated megastore on the Left Bank of Paris. But the champagne flowed and the casually elegant models bounced down the improvised runway loudly chatting as if they were strolling down Boulevard Saint Germain.  This relaxed hilarity gave just the right touch of lightness to the rather heavily layered clothes, mostly in signature knits, and long flowing pants. The flirtatious hats had the right Parisian touch. Evening wear sparkled in over the top sequined gowns and feather light chiffon. The entire show was what the doctor ordered to lift sagging spirits.


.










Sonia Rykiel:



Posted by MADELEINE CZIGLER
Photographs by ALICE CROSARA and ELIZABETH PANTALEO

Karl Lagerfeld looked to the future with his cutting edge Fall Winter 2009 show in Paris. The models wore super tight black pants with red stripes down the back, instead of tights, with delicately embellished dresses and jackets. One of the most notable aspects of the collection was the large fur-covered motorcycle helmets worn by some of the models. As always Lagerfeld is a crowd pleaser with a dramatic and memorable presentation.

Models backstage, just chillin'...



Karl and Anna, also just chillin'...



Raquel and Lily, chillin' during rehearsals...



Oasis. Definitely. Maybe.



Peaches Geldof and Cory Kennedy. You guessed it - chillin'.





The Collection:











Posted by ELIZABETH

Sophia Kokosalaki did not disappoint with her Fall Winter 2009 show in Paris this past Saturday. Her collection was rocker chic with cool embroidered jackets, studded pants, and bold geometric dresses. The ever so popular big shoulders were present but toned down in comparison to many other fall collections, giving a more wearable option to this trend.

The bold background to the runway helped set the tone of the show:



Peaches Geldof was in attendance:



As was Leigh Lezark:











Posted by ELIZABETH

Last week, Fashion File received the shocking and very sad news that our friend Luis Fernandes had passed away. Luis was a London-based cameraman that I first met at New York Fashion Week in the mid 90's. I was producing for Fashion File and he was shooting for a show called Planet Fashion.

There were a number of reasons he stood out from the umpteen other camera guys at the collections: the fresh face, the gold tooth, the South London accent - but it was the fact that he always looked like he was having a laugh that made him interesting to me. We started chatting backstage at some show - I think it was Anna Sui - and we quickly became friends.

I didn't know it at the time but Fashion File producers Gillian Dobias and Antonetta Vasso had also noticed Luis. They had met him at fashion week in Milan and were chatting him up for a different reason: They wanted to hire him.

Luis became our regular cameraman for the London and Milan collections, as well as our go-to guy for special projects - places like Rio and Morocco. He shot for Fashion File for over ten years and was an absolute joy to work with.

I had some great times with Luis - in the Fall of 2000 I covered London and Milan with him. For two weeks straight we would work like dogs at the shows then eat, drink and party late into the night. Way too many stories to tell. Only our Milan camera assistant Marco knows all of the crazy details.

Other producers worked with him as well - Samantha Shephard, Doreen Binder, Madeleine Czigler and Rejean Beaudin all spent time in the fashion trenches with Luis at their side.

Our long time editors Vance Tschritter and Faziela Haffejee never met Luis but feel as if they've known him for years - a result of cutting a decade's worth of his excellent footage.

Luis shot great runway viz and loved shooting street fashion (especially if involved a pair of high boots), but his forte was backstage footage. He could blag his way into any backstage (no one was better - we're talking Prada here) and could coax a smile out of any model - from battle-hardened veterans to terrified rookies.

Our former host Tim Blanks sent me an email from Milan last week with the news: Luis had died the day before while undergoing a heart operation in London. He was 36.

The members of the Fashion File team who knew him are still in shock. We've spent the past week getting in touch with each other and trading Luis stories - fond memories of a great friend who will be missed by us all.
 
Posted by Chris Chilco

Feathers are big this season in Paris, and the Givenchy collection for Fall 09 displayed this in the most unlikely of places: shoes! What better way to lift your average model off the ground? While most of the collection consisted of black and navy blue suits and dresses in wool and tweed, one felt the right touch of insouciance in jeweled belts, casually flung fur stoles and ostrich detailing. The designer Roberto Tischi likes to experiment with draping as seen in his Greek goddess chiffon dresses. Lace - another strong trend this season - looked enticing in his slim-cut dresses.





































Celeb Attendees

Kanye West and Amber Rose:



Lou Doillon:



Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Times must be rough when Christian Lacroix's collection for Fall 09 is presented in a garage usually reserved for your more down to earth Antwerp designers. Lacroix laughingly observed after the show, "maybe next season we'll be showing in my apartment down the street."

But the guilded chairs set up for guests still looked dashing against the stone grey walls, and shocking pink carpet covered up the bare stones in the improvised dressing room. All this to say that while the means may be reduced the elegant Parisian spirit of the house is alive and well.

The collection was pared down to basics: a soft box trench coat in navy cashmere, a knitted pea jacket over a printed twill skirt, or an elegantly draped navy chiffon dress decorated with jet ornaments. Colours were muted and more monochrome than the ususal Lacroix fare, and there were lace details in the evening wear with outstanding lace body suits. A sparkingly feminine collection with the right touch of sobriety in these uncertain times.














































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

While anti-fur protesters chanted outside: "Gaultier assassin"... a gay Paree evening exploded on the Gaultier catwalk. Trust the bad boy of fashion to conjure up a fun filled show. It gave a nod to his favourite theme of spicy S & M play. But that raunchy styling did not hide the master's touch. His classic trench coats, lush furs, well cut jackets, and slinky slit evening skirts  reaffirmed his confident take on the real Parisienne.

Anti-fur Protesters







Fashion Insiders

Rachel Zoe:



Nina Garcia:



Carine Roitfeld:



The Collection:

































Photographed by Alice Crosara and Elizabeth Pantaleo
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Guilded panels with garlands of lilies of the valley decorated the catwalk while the sweet scent of this emblematic flower of the House of Dior wafted through the air. A reminder of this most Parisian of fashion house's glorious past and an enticing clue to the show to come.

Eva Green:



The Misshapes:



And backstage, severely pinned down hair framed a face made dramatic by spectacularly hued eyes.





















At first glance the show seemed oh so Dior: voluminous skirts, pinched waists and fur trimmed coats. But a closer look revealed rich details inspired by Persian miniatures and the sumptuous decadence of the Orientalists.

The classic wools and pinstripes which are a Dior calling card, were cut in Oriental shapes, and there was unashamed luxury in Astrakhan, rich brocade and skirts adorned with paisley cutouts and accessorized with tassel belts.

Cocktail jackets were softened with Oriental trousers luxuriously cut in rich satin and lame. Lightly draped evening dresses in luminous jewel colours were delicately embroidered with metals and stones. Resounding applause at the end of the show for the designer, John Galliano, who knows how to mix tradition with his added Midas touch.

























Photographed by Alice Crosara and Elizabeth Pantaleo
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Mickey Mouse was the star of the show in Jeremy Scott's Fall/Winter 2009/2010 ready-to-wear collection shown in Paris this past Saturday. His signature bold graphics and bright colors were hard to miss. Telephones, dice, hearts, buttons, and even Mickey Mouse himself appeared on dresses, skirts, and shoes. The outfits were paired with short black bobs and bright red lipstick.

After the show, Kanye West, the Misshapes, Peaches Geldof, Cory Kennedy, and Ellen Von Unwerth, among others, were seen excitedly greeting Jeremy Scott backstage.



































Kanye West:



Peaches Geldof and Cory Kennedy w/ Jeremy Scott:



The Misshapes w/ Jeremy Scott:



Photographed and posted by Alice Crosara

In a season when economic uncertainty reigns, it is reassuring to take in a show such as Lanvin. The designer, Alber Elbaz, understands the need of value dressing without making it safe or boring. Confidently striding models sported chic, cinched at the waist, elegantly black suits. Fox hoops were casually flung over the shoulder for good measure. A parade of classically Parisienne outfits followed and the chartreuse dresses had a timeless appeal. Flattering, slinky evening gowns brought up the rear. The dramatic massive walkout at the close of the show justified Elbaz's philosophy: "I like dressing strong women," he said.





























Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Antwerp designer Ann Demeulemeester likes to play with gothic themes. Her all black collection with a touch of her romantically flowing white blouses, and a dress or two, was a bravura display of exquisitely executed medieval themes. Brocade inserts on dandy jackets, black on black emroidery, dramatic high leather boots, wide corset belts, poney skin jackets, rough earthy knits, all added to an atmosphere of darkly romantic decadence. And the feather wreaths crowning the models heads made for a Swan Lake moment.























Carine Roitfeld:



Ann Demeulemeester:



Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

In a departure from his gothic all black aesthetic, Rick Owens lightened up for winter 09. His geometric, precisely cut knitwear, his layered leggings and mini skirts took on hues of pastel baby blue. The entire collection seemed to float on light feathers which decorated the models' hair. And the boots, as ever, were cutting edge: ready to step into the future. Owens is one designer who can give sportswear a modern idiosyncratic twist without forgetting the wearability factor.This show rocked with self assured yet soft femininity. Front row center sat Anna Wintour next to Morley Safer of "Sixty Minutes"...seems that the lady is being profiled for this venerable CBS show.

Gareth Pugh (right) and boyfriend sitting front row.



Rick Owen's wife Michele Lamy



Anna Wintour and Morley Safer



One of the guests sporting a pair of Rick Owens boots



Carine Roitfeld...



...and her amazing shoes!!!



The Collection:

















POSTED BY MADELEINE CZIGLER
PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH PANTALEO

Fashion File covered Italian designer Romeo Gigli's first fashion show in Paris in the early nineties. His romantic, ethnically inspired clothes (way before Dries van Noten) were so well received by the fashion crowd in the debut show that our crew was almost wiped out in the ensuing stampede to greet the maestro.

Gigli has not shown recently, but now he has made a comeback in his inimitable artistic way. In a raw artist's gallery in the trendy Marais district of Paris, Gigli put on a beautifully restrained performance art show that displayed his talent for refined romance. His draped skirts and dresses show off his talent for fabric research: the mixed fabric could be stretched to adapt to the body. And his play of masculine/feminine as seen in his coats and jackets avoids the heaviness of romance. His knits are sexy, flirtatiously cut, yet never loud.

Gigli has always been a master colorist in the Italian Renaissance mode, and the muted browns, blues and grays that mix with brilliant oranges and reds proves that he has not lost the touch. It is good to see him back.































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

A Star Trek opera in dramatic colours was Olivier Theysken's bold statement to chase away the winter blues. The designer is well known for his romantic take on women's wear, and it showed in the elaborate draping of his Queen of the Night evening gowns.

In a room all draped in black, the entire collection had a sunset feel with shimmer, sparkle, glint and gleam textures. But what took the fashion crowd's breath away were the shoes with radically modified heels that seemed not to touch the ground and floated the models down the runway. Luckily there were no pratfalls!

A strong rumour persists that this is Theysken's last collection for the house. As he is a great protege of Anna Wintour's, reliable sources say she is apparently taking the dismissal very personally. But with a collection like this, it's clear Theysken's time in fashion is far from done.

Celebs In Attendance:

Carine Roitfeld



Nina Garcia



Milla Jovovich



Lou Doillon




Killian Hennessy




The Collection:































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

The very Parisian designer Martine Sitbon is behind this label who's cachet is rising from Paris to Tokyo. In an intimate presentation in her studios on the rue du Mail in Paris, with disco balls sparkling from the ceiling, and champagne flowing, Sitbon delivered a collection true to her rock chic aesthetic. Sparkling eyes matched the glittery patchwork dresses ready for the ChaCha club in Paris. Just be careful dancing in those lovely shoes!

































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler

Gareth Pugh is a young British designer still in his twenties. But his aesthetic savvy is way beyond his years. In these challenging economic times, he chose to present his collection for Fall 09 in a rundown theatre located in a less than chic Parisian neighbourhood near the Gare de l'Est. But the fashion crowd did not mind. They showed up in droves to screen a beautiful video produced by British artist Ruth Hogben. In streamlined black and white Kabuki style, model Natasa Vojnovic presented beautifully tailored space age clothes, from dramatically voluminous jackets to gossamer tops and flatteringly flared pants. All this in a darkened theatre with smoke rising from dried ice...

Reactions after the show were rather positive. Diane Pernet from a Shaded View of Fashion thought the video was beautiful, while Cathy Horyn of the New York Times wished she could have seen and touched the clothes. One thing is for sure, this was a strikingly haunting presentation that reaffirms British creativity a la Galliano and McQueen.


































Photographed by Alice Crosara
Posted by Madeleine Czigler