The return of market season

    1 1/2 cups sugar

    1 1/2 tsp. cornstarch

    6 large egg whites

    1 tsp. white vinegar

    1/2 tsp. vanilla

    whipping cream

    strawberry-rhubarb compote (below)

    Preheat oven to 250° F and line two large baking sheets with foil or parchment. Stir the cornstarch into the sugar. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar, beating until the mixture holds stiff, glossy peaks, like shaving cream. Beat in the vinegar and vanilla.

    To make one large Pavlova, spoon the meringue onto the baking sheet and spread out with the bottom of a spoon to form a 9"-10" circle with a slight indent in the middle and raised edges, like a nest. To make individual Pavlovas, spoon small mounds (about a tablespoon of meringue) about half an inch apart on the baking sheet, then make little indents in the middle using the tip of a teaspoon. Bake for an hour, until crisp but still soft inside.

    Let the meringues cool on the sheets, then peel them off the foil. To serve, top with a spoonful of strawberry-rhubarb compote and a dollop of whipped cream. Makes about 40 pavlova.

Strawberry-rhubarb Compote: simmer 2-3 stalks of chopped rhubarb with about 1/4 cup strawberry jam until the rhubarb softens and the mixture has the texture of soft jam. Cool, then refrigerate until well chilled.

Braised Lamb Shank Shepherd's Pie

olive or canola oil. for cooking
3 lamb shanks
1 sprig or a big pinch of thyme
1-2 sprigs rosemary
2 cups beef or chicken stock
1/4 cup flour, divided (plus extra if needed)
6 russet or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
1/4 cup butter, divided
1-2 cups milk
1 bag baby spinach
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan

In a large, heavy skillet, heat a drizzle of oil over medium-high heat 
and brown the lamb shanks on all sides, sprinkling with salt and 
pepper. Transfer to a slow cooker and add the stock. Cover and cook on 
low for 6-8 hours.

When the meat is done, take it out and roughly chop it, discarding the 
bones. Pour a little of the juices out of the slow cooker into the 
skillet, and whisk in 2 Tbsp. flour. Bring to a simmer and whisk in 
the remaining juices, and bring to a simmer. Cook until thickened, 
adding a bit more flour if you need to. Stir in the chopped lamb and 
pour into a baking dish.

In a large pot, cover the potatoes with water and bring to a boil; 
cook until soft. Drain and mash with 2 Tbsp. butter and a splash of 
milk. Put the remaining butter into the skillet with 2 Tbsp. flour and 
whisk into a paste. Whisk in a cup of milk and cook, stirring, until 
thickened. Tear in the spinach and cook until wilted. If the mixture 
seems too thick, add more milk. Add the Parmesan and stir until melted.

Layer the creamed spinach over the lamb mixture and top with the 
potatoes; bake at 350F for 45 minutes, or until golden on top and 
bubbly around the edges. Serves 6.