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Hunting down your main course

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by Amber Hildebrandt, CBCNews.ca

The locavore trend appears to have taken a bloodthirsty turn — into the realm of hunting and slaughtering animals.

Perhaps it was inevitable that the interest in city and rural foraging would translate into some going a step further to tracking or butchering our prey.

I first read an article in the online magazine Slate.com titled There will be chicken blood, in which the author describes in numbing detail killing her backyard chickens. She portrays the slaughters as an inevitable part of the growing popularity of city chicken coops not normally touched upon.

"It's not easy to swing the ax, but I do," writes L.E. Leone. "Then I kneel in the dirt, holding the body still while it flutters, and hyperventilate."

Then in Wednesday's edition of the Toronto Star, food editor Kim Honey, took readers on a perhaps unwelcome journey through a cooking demonstration that involved killing a "fluffy bunny" with "blond fur and little black eyes" as part of a piece on wild edibles.

"It was cute, but I wanted to eat it," she writes of the rabbit. She then goes into her failed attempt to kill it with a blow to the head, passing the duty on to someone else.

A litany of caustic comments poured into the newspaper following the piece's publication.

Is it awful that I snickered a bit at the ridiculousness of it all — this urban writer clutching a rabbit in her arms before gutting it after the kill? I applauded a little inside.

Until now, the locavore and 100-mile diet has inspired interest in plants formerly known as weeds and all that grows around us, whether in the urban jungle or the wild. But it was just a matter of time before those foraging for berries would take the next step.

A few blogs have appeared providing slaughter tutorials, such as How to Butcher a Chicken, or focusing on the gourmet recipes resulting from the catch, such as Hunter Angler Gardener Cook.

Though I don't think the experience is for everyone, it gives a newfound appreciation for meat beyond the styrofoam packages in a grocery aisle.

Sure, the reality of it may be enough to turn people to vegetarianism, temporarily or long term. I remember being on the edge of a no-meat lifestyle when I was growing up on the farm.

After a cow was butchered, the dismembered head would be left upright on the ground by the bale shed. Nearby were the innards. Inside the kitchen sink, the bloody liver would soak in water until it was time to cook supper.

I will admit that other than fish I never watched the killing, nor performed it. And perhaps that was my loss. I would have learned something unforgettable about how intricately I am tied to the animals that feed me.

Perhaps it's time to learn a few skills from my farmer father. At the very least, I plan to get my hands scaly and fillet a pickerel this summer.

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Comments

YieldNine

I thought your article raised a good point about urban life: We are so far out of synch with the world around us, that urbanites may tend to look upon the slaughter of animals as barbaric. For this reason, hunting/harvesting of animals has been cast in a bad light, and hunters themselves are often painted as nothing more than gun-toting rednecks.

The truth of the matter is, animals are a legitimate source of food, and often contain nutrients that aren't readily available in plant material. There is something natural, and even beneficial in the sustainable harvest of animals for food. To criticize someone because they choose to feed their family in such a natural way doesn't make good sense. I suspect that if those same critics were to actually visit a modern poultry or beef processing facility, they might quickly change their minds about which food source is the better option!

Posted July 25, 2008 12:23 PM

LJ

Montreal

In my opinion as an urbanite ex-farmer/hunter/fisher, the most unethical aspects eating meat (and dairy and eggs) are the ways in which most animals are raised and killed. How people can cavalierly eat eggs and drink milk that comes from enslaved, tortured, animals (and wear leather shoes from cattle pumped full of hormones and antibiotics) whilst slagging people for hunting and killing animals that are either wild or raised free-range blows my mind.

Posted July 25, 2008 03:21 PM

Kate

Vancouver

I don't think it is right to kill animals to eat. Raising animals also wastes a lot of resources. If everyone stopped eating meat, the food crisis would ease and starvation could be beaten. (People could eat the grains that are fed to livestock/other grains could be grown.) However I have a lot less sympathy for seafood, and I continue to eat it. Eggs, though, involve a lot of cruelty. Male chicks of the laying breeds are thrown live into garbage bags and then discarded! I find this horrifying.

Posted July 27, 2008 10:38 PM

pp

ontario

Dear Kate (and all you other uninformed):

Humans evolved as ominivors - both meat and vegitation eaters. If it were not for our meat diet then Man-kind would not have evolved the brain capacity we now enjoy and which makes us the species that we are (good or bad). Protein aids in brain development. That is why infants drink milk and not graze on grass.

As for hunting for your own food - well I am a woman and I am quite capable of hunting and dressing out my own food. If there is ever a crisis in this world where food sources fall short - Well I am sorry to say but you will be starving in the city but I will be dining on wild rabbit, fish and deer up here in the country... One should always be able to sustain and support ones self in all situations...

City People make me laugh :)

As for the bleeding hearts who think all animals that are raised in captivity are treated cruelly - well come on up to my place and I will show you around the farming community here where the animals are treated better than their owners. After all, the animals are the owners income so they know to treat them well else they will not be living very well themselves....

Posted July 28, 2008 05:14 AM

Leslie

This misconception that feeding animals is denying food to starving people has gained momentum in the popular press, but it is misleading. There are cattle raised on pasture land which is unsuitable for other crops because the soil is too thin, rocky, etc. Many farmers are using byproducts, that are unfit for human consumption, from other industries in the animal feeds. These byproducts are from bakeries and breweries, to just name two.
For those who choose a vegetarian lifestyle, don't kid yourself that this is better on the environment. Think about how far your fruits and veggies have to travel to reach your table. This is using non-renewable energy. Most of us here in Canada (and many people around the world) do not live in a climate that allows the growing of food year-round. Where do you think your bean sprouts are coming from in February? Livestock can be grown year-round in Canada. Despite all fearmongering about meat, there are many nutrients which our bodies require that are more readily available from an animal source than a non-animal source. Calcium, for one, is more easily absorbed by the body when it comes from milk than from broccoli or a pill.
As for hunting and eating what you have killed, perhaps this is not something everyone can do. But if it ever came down to catching your own food or starving, I think we would all manage to eat that cute little bunny.

Posted July 30, 2008 05:51 AM

Dominique

Vancouver

It's a pity plants have no cute little eyes to beg for mercy. Yet they grow, reproduce and silently suffer the ravenous appetite of the rest of the living world. So let's be logic; let's stop eating meat and plants or let's have a rock for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Seriously, we kill to feed or we die. I am at peace with that. I lived on a farm and got to kill the chicken, bunny, lamb and tomato that ended up in my plate. I have empathy, just as much as any hard core vegetarian or animal advocate out there. I just want my food to have a real life before it get killed humanly. So I eat organic a much as possible, I buy only what I need, re-heat my left overs in respect for the animal (or the turnip :-) that died to feed me and read labels.

Posted August 20, 2008 07:52 PM

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From trends and culture to politics and nutrition, Food Bytes serves up tasty tidbits about food and the issues surrounding it that flavour our everyday lives.

About the writers

Amber Hildebrandt Amber Hildebrandt writes for CBCNews.ca in Toronto. Growing up on a farm in Manitoba, she acquired an insatiable appetite, but it was during a stint in Japan that she developed her discerning tastebuds and "foodie" ways.

Andrea Chiu Andrea Chiu is an associate producer at CBC Radio Digital. Though she loves to eat, cook and discuss food, don't ask her to bake. It never turns out well. She tweets as @TOfoodie on Twitter and organizes food and wine events in Toronto called FoodieMeet.

Tara Kimura Tara Kimura is the consumer life reporter for CBCNews.ca, covering a wide range of issues that range from rising food costs and the growing organic movement, to new trends in the marketplace.

Andree Lau Andree Lau is a CBC web reporter in Calgary. Her journalism career includes seven years as a CBC-TV reporter. Her own blog called "are you gonna eat that?" chronicles her eating adventures (including sampling snake and camel hoof tendon).

Jessica Wong Jessica Wong is a CBCNews.ca writer who loves to eat and cook, as well as discuss, read and watch programming about food, sometimes all at once.

Kevin Yarr Kevin Yarr, CBCNews.ca's writer in Prince Edward Island, wrote about food and beer for national and regional magazines before joining the CBC. He acquired a desire for new tastes on his first trip to Europe, and an appreciation of eating locally and in season when he finally settled down on P.E.I.

Elizabeth Bridge Elizabeth Bridge is a writer with the CBC Digital Archives in Toronto. She first ventured into the kitchen as a child to indulge a sweet tooth by baking cookies and making fudge. A student budget compelled her to be a vegetarian (for a while) and instilled in her an ongoing curiosity about food and cooking.

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